What to do and visit in San Sebastián? This itinerary for the beautiful city in the Basque Country includes pintxos to taste, architecture and culture to explore and the Cantabrian Sea to dive into. Whether on board the Sud Express (suspended since 2020) or by plane, you're just a short journey from Portugal.
The city, capital of the Basque province of Gipuzkoa, is perfect for a long weekend or a weekend getaway.
To say that San Sebastián is a delightful city might seem like an exaggeration. However, three of Spain's seven Michelin 3-star restaurants are in this Basque city. In total, the city has an impressive 16 Michelin stars and the cuisine is one of the "attractions" not to be missed in San Sebastián.
The Basque Country traditionally includes the Community of Navarra and three provinces that are part of France, but San Sebastián is as much a part of Spain as it is of France.
What to do and visit in San Sebastián
San Sebastián, the gastronomic capital of the Basque Country, convinces anyone - through smell, taste and sight.
Donostia (as it is called in the Basque dialect) attracts food lovers who devour pintxos after pintxos, walkers who follow the footsteps of the Camino de Santiago, and other travelers who appreciate the landscapes. With a direct train from Lisbon, getting to San Sebastián is actually very easy.
Mouth-watering food, beautiful buildings like the Kursaal or the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, excellent beaches such as La Concha, and incredible views from Mount Urgull or Mount Igueldo.
There's never a shortage of things to do in San Sebastián and it's not difficult to map out an itinerary for travelling around the Basque Country's best city.
So here are some ideas and suggestions for getting to know this Basque city.
- Hotel in San Sebastián - Find the ideal accommodation in San Sebastián, with incredible offers and excellent facilities
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Bathing at La Concha Beach
One of San Sebastián's greatest attractions - and the one we're almost magnetically drawn to - is the La Concha Beach. This is also where most visitors go and stay (at least on sunny days).
The monarch Maria Cristina was responsible for making La Concha In the mid-19th century, San Sebastián was famously declared the summer capital of Europe. An exaggeration, of course, but enough to put the place on the world's lips. In San Sebastián, in addition to La Concha Beach, the beach of Ondarreta is another that stands out among the three beaches that line the Basque city.
Ondarreta is a beach you really must visit in San Sebastián. Located in the Barrio del Antiguo, on the slope of Mount Igueldo and close to the sculpture Peine de los Vientos by Eduardo Chillida at one end, and Pico del Loro at the other. Although shorter than La Concha, Ondarreta is wider, allowing for more space even at high tide.
The third beach in San Sebastián is the Zurriola - known as Gros beach, as it is located in this part of the city. It's a less touristy beach and more frequented by locals and surfers.
Tasting (and devouring) so many Pintxos as possible
Much of San Sebastián's life revolves around its culinary offerings. Taste pintxos can become an addiction during a visit to the Basque city. If you're short of things to do in San Sebastián, then take the opportunity to pop into a number of bars and sample the huge - almost endless - variety of flavours. pintxos.
What are pintxos? In short, they are the cousins of tapas. Pintxos are the essence of San Sebastián, and just walking through the historic center (Parte Vieja) lets you inhale the aroma coming from some of these bars. Some proudly display the pintxos on their counters, while others prepare them fresh on the spot.
Pintxar is essential, and there is even a kind of peddy paper pilgrimage called txikiteo, which involves hopping from restaurant to restaurant carrying with you (in your stomach) various flavors and leaving behind only empty plates.
This is a popular pastime among groups of friends on Fridays and weekends. If you get tired of this pastime, you can entertain your stomach at a Michelin restaurant.
Get to know the Basque reality at the San Telmo Museum
A visit to the San Telmo Museum in San Sebastián is vital to understanding a little more about the culture and history of the Basque people. The historical, artistic and archaeological museum was inaugurated in 1902. Initially located in another building, the museum was moved to its current site in 1932.
The architectural conversion is also what attracts many visitors. Inside the museum you can travel through time, from its beginnings to the present day, passing through tragic episodes such as the bombing of Guernica.
The original building was a 16th century Dominican convent, considered a unique example of architecture in the region due to its fusion of Gothic and Renaissance styles, while the new building was added to the museum a few years ago and was designed by architects Nieto and Sobejano.
The museum houses more than 35,000 pieces divided into various categories: Ethnography, Fine Arts, Photography, Archaeology and History.
Especially if the weather is dark outside, this is a beautiful place to spend a few hours.
San Telmo Museum Hours: Tuesday to Sunday (10 AM – 8 PM) Closed on Mondays.
Ticket price: General admission – €6. Students, families, and seniors over 65 – €3. Entry to the San Telmo Museum is free every Tuesday.
Discover the Historic Centre (Old Town)
A Plaza de la Constitución is the nerve centre of San Sebastián's historic centre, as this is where all the main festivals and celebrations take place. The Plaza de la Constitución or Consti, as it is known to the locals, was designed in 1817 by the architect Ugartemendia, after a fire razed this area of the city to the ground.
Bullfights used to take place in this square and you can still see some of the inscriptions alluding to the bullfighting show. Now the Plaza is used for relaxing and enjoying Basque food and drink.
And in the Old Town you can also find two of the main churches in San Sebastián: the Church of Santa María and the Church of San Vicente. Thousands flock to this part of the metropolis to linger in the bars and restaurants, sampling wines, beers and, of course.., pintxos.
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
Designed by the architect Manuel de Echave, the Buen Pastor Cathedral is one of the icons of the city of San Sebastián. Construction began in 1888 using materials collected from Mount Igueldo. It is a neo-Gothic building with a 70-metre-high tower that fascinates all visitors.
Buen Pastor has undergone two major restoration phases over the course of its existence. Firstly to create the conditions to house the diocesan headquarters and then, coinciding with the cathedral's 75th anniversary, the ceiling, stained glass windows and wooden floor (now marble) were replaced. Occupying an area of 1900 square metres, it can accommodate 4,000 people.
Ticket price: Free
Good Shepherd Cathedral Opening Hours: from 8:00 AM to 12:30 PM and from 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM
"Inhale" art at the Tabakalera International Centre for Contemporary Culture
This cultural centre operated for nine decades as a tobacco factory, hence the name Tabakalera. Located in the Egia neighbourhood, in 2015 it reopened its doors with the aim of promoting and disseminating culture, and the main façade was kept to preserve the building's character.
Tabakalera is also a system of private initiatives and institutions working to facilitate the transfer of knowledge between local and international agents, helping to professionalise artistic practices.
Tabakalera is a place where knowledge is exchanged and passed on, discussion and reflection are encouraged and critical thinking skills are increased.
At Tabakalera, you can, for example, go to the cinema or to concerts and exhibitions. Whether you're there to debate, reflect or attend an event, don't forget to enjoy the glass roof and the views of the city from the roof terrace.
Opening hours of Tabakalera
Monday to Thursday (9am - 9pm), Friday (9am - 10pm), Saturday (10am - 10pm)
Sundays and public holidays (10am - 9pm). In summer, opening hours are extended to 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays.
Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro
The Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro is one of the city's most emblematic churches. In Baroque style, the building was completed in 1774. This church is highly respected by believers and atheists alike, as it is considered part of the history of this city of Spain.
Santa María is the most important church in the historic centre and one of the most symbolic in San Sebastián. Every year on 14 August, as well as visiting the church, visitors can enjoy the music of the Orfeón Donostiarra choir. Inside and out, it's a building worth admiring.
Entry: Free
Opening hours of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro: from 8:00 AM to 12:30 PM and from 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM
Congress Centre and Kursaal Auditorium
When planning what you want to do and visit in San Sebastián, you have to include the Kursaal. This is a large exhibition and conference centre built by architect Rafael Moneo. The building ended up causing controversy due to its architectural clash with the other buildings in the city.
The Kursaal conference centre consists of two huge translucent crystal cubes on Zurriola beach. The total cost of construction exceeded 50 million euros, much more than estimated, which is why its construction and ultra-modern aesthetic were highly criticised and considered controversial. However, with the passage of time, the locals learnt to appreciate it (or had no choice).
The Kursaal has a spacious auditorium, concert halls and exhibition rooms. It is often used for conferences, classical and pop-rock concerts, and has been the venue for the San Sebastián Festival since its first edition in 1999.
The crystalline structure allows the building to be illuminated according to the celebrations, for example at Christmas, Carnival or city festivals. The Kursaal is most attractive at night, when the entire façade lights up.
Travelling to the top of Mount Igueldo
Put on your trainers and climb to the top of Monte Igueldo. Alternatively, hop on the cable car and wait for the short journey. Either way, you can enjoy breathtaking views of San Sebastián.
Monte Igueldo is located in the western part of the city and, if you want to go with children, this may be the best option, as you can travel to the top in the cable car, which has been operating since 1912. The entrance to the cable car is located at the end of Ondarreta beach, just before the sculpture of Peine del Viento.
Relaxing by the Peine del Viento
Slowly admiring the crashing of the waves on the Peine del Viento sculpture in San Sebastián is almost therapeutic. The Peine del Viento is a sculpture by a Basque artist, a delight for the eyes and ears, as the crashing of the waves on the sculpture creates distinctive sounds.
Peine del Viento is one of the best-known works by sculptor Eduardo Chillida - and also one of the city's most famous. The work was created in the 1970s, but the official inauguration only took place decades later to honour the local artist.
Located at one end of Ondarreta beach, on the slopes of Monte Igueldo, the sculpture is made up of three curved steel sculptures. Many see it as the shape of a comb that has been bent by the force of the wind, hence the name Peine del Viento. This is an excellent place to watch the sunset.
Hike to Mount Urgull
When you're planning your itinerary of places to visit in San Sebastián, you have to include Mount Urgull. Located at one end of the Bay of La Concha, it offers stunning views of the city's historic centre, the sea and La Concha beach. In around half an hour you can reach the top, where you can also go for a walk. Castillo de la Mota and the English cemetery.
Monte Urgull is one of the city's three largest lungs: a natural area that will envelop you in an atmosphere of calm, far from the hustle and bustle of the city. The route has detours lined with exotic vegetation that lead to viewpoints with perfect panoramic views of San Sebastián.
It was a strategic point in the 12th century, defending the town throughout history - especially from attacks by the French. At the top of the mountain you can find the small castle (Castillo de la Mota), including some fortifications and cannons.
Hiking to the summit of Mount Urgull is an activity I recommend on a trip to San Sebastián. If you don't want to climb the mountain, another option is to go round the hillside, exploring the Paseo de los curasa boulevard from where you can see the harbour and La Concha Bay.
Mount Urgull timetable
From 1st May to 30th September (8am - 9pm). 1st October to 30th April (8am - 7.30pm)
How to explore Mount Urgull
Four paths lead to the summit of Mount Urgull in San Sebastián. Each of these paths starts in a different place.
The oldest path can be found next to the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro, another starts next to the Museo de San Telmo, at the intersection of Mari and Virgen del Coro streets or from the New Paseo.
Each of these routes reveals natural areas and viewpoints from where you can appreciate the most beautiful images of the Basque city. If there's one route that offers a glimpse of all the historical events that the mountain slopes conceal, it's the trail that runs from Plaza Zuloaga and then descends to the New Paseo.
Opened in 1916, the New Paseo is recognised by the spectacular effect of the waves hitting the wall. Don't miss the opportunity, when you visit San Sebastián, to appreciate the Vacant BuildingThis is an imposing sculpture created by Jorge Oteiza that defies the sea.
Map of places to visit in San Sebastián
Extra information: I visited San Sebastián as part of my long-distance train journey from Portugal to Macau.
Extra information
Guided city tours
If you want to get to know a little more of San Sebastián you can take a tour of the city – at no cost. This can be a quick way to get a general overview of the city, to then explore at your own pace. Here you can see some of these tours, with an emphasis on those that include pintxos…
Walk along the coast of San Sebastián
As you can see, there's no shortage of things to do in San Sebastián. However, if you have more time than a long weekend or a few days' holiday, take the opportunity to go for a longer walk along the coast of this Basque city. For example, the walk between San Sebastián and Pasajes is part of the Coastal Route, a journey of around 5 kilometres (10 kilometres round trip) over slightly hilly terrain.
The walk, which runs parallel to the coast, starts in San Sebastián and takes you to the neighbouring fishing village of Pasajes de San Juan. The walk is very popular with the Basque inhabitants and, along the way, you should also come across many pilgrims travelling along this more rugged part of the Way of Saint James.
The starting point is next to Avenida Navarra (Navarra Hiribidea), by Zurriola beach, where you'll find the stairs. You can return to San Sebastián by public bus. The buses depart every 15 or 20 minutes from Pasajes de San Pedro. The bus stop is located just off Juan XXIII Street.
How many days do I need to see San Sebastián
I'd say that between two and three days is the ideal time to see (almost) everything in San Sebastián. Don't forget that one of the reasons to visit this Basque city is its gastronomy, so you'll need time to savour as many of them as possible. pintxos as possible.
San Sebastián is an ideal destination for a weekend trip or a holiday getaway. If, for example, you take the train from Lisbon on a Friday and return on Sunday or Monday, you will have time to stroll and enjoy the city's restaurants and bodegas. And if you have the budget for it, go to one of the city's three-star Michelin restaurants. Here are some images to inspire you.
When to visit San Sebastián
The best time of year to visit San Sebastián is between May and August. Although some of these months coincide with high season, you'll also benefit from good weather in the Basque Country. I visited during spring and the temperatures were warm enough even to go to the beach.
October and September are also pleasant periods, but the tenth month of the year is already somewhat unstable and one of the rainiest. Actually, I don't think there's a bad time to go to San Sebastián.
However, if you want to enjoy the outdoors, go to the beach or go hiking, then opt for spring and summer. If your focus is on gastronomy, then you can go at any time of year.
How to get to San Sebastián | Transport
Getting to San Sebastián from Portugal is very easy. I travelled on the Sud Express from Lisbon. The train leaves Santa Apolónia station at 9.25pm (with stops at Oriente station and others in Portugal, such as Entroncamento, Coimbra B, Guarda or Vilar Formoso).
Where to buy Sud Express tickets
Prices start at less than €30 for seating and around €57 for a berth in a four-seater compartment. Women and men travel in separate compartments unless you book a compartment just for you and those travelling with you. You can buy a ticket for the Sud Express train on the CP website online or at national railway stations.
The compartments on the Sud Express train between Lisbon and San Sebastián have plenty of space for luggage (especially for backpackers) above and below the berth, as well as a small washbasin. The doors can be locked from the inside for privacy and security.
Note: Sud Express has been suspended since 2020.
Transport stations in San Sebastián
Bus Terminal - The bus station is located on Paseo Federico García Lorca and there is transport to Vitoria (the capital of the Basque Country), Bilbao, Pamplona, Barcelona and Madrid.
Train Station - San Sebastián's main railway station is located at Paseo de Francia, 22. From there you can catch trains to national and international destinations - such as Lisbon, Madrid or Paris.
Flights to San Sebastián
If you want to fly, there is a small airport about 20 kilometres from San Sebastián, near Hondarribia. The bus between the airport and San Sebastián takes around 30 minutes. There are flights from Madrid, Barcelona and Tenerife. There are also airports in Biarritz (with bus and train connections to San Sebastián) and Bilbao. If you want to search for flights to San Sebastián I recommend Skyscanner.
Hotel in San Sebastián - Recommendations
Finding a cheap hotel in San Sebastián can be a tricky task, especially from May onwards. The prices don't always smile on you and the value for money is often very low. As I booked my hotel in San Sebastián at very short notice, I was left with very few options, but I still managed to find a good place to stay in San Sebastián. Old Quarter.
A short distance from some attractions like the Peine del Viento, Mount Igueldo or Ondarreta beach, the Koisi Hostel is excellent. New facilities, breakfast for two euros, free beer at check-in. Furthermore, the Bairro del Antiguo is great for finding restaurants and pintxos at a lower price.
Another option is the Pensión Easo, with prices starting from €40. Just a 5-minute walk from La Concha Beach and 10 minutes from the historic center of San Sebastián, Pensión Easo offers modern rooms with free WiFi. Another plus is that it is located about 900 meters from the train station.
Similarly, the hostel A Room In The City offers accommodation in the centre of San Sebastián. The hostel includes a dining area - with a microwave, a toaster, a kettle and kitchen utensils. Prices start at 28€ for dormitories and 50€ for double rooms.
Located in San Sebastián, less than 1 kilometre from the old town, in the Gros area, the Pension Del Mar offers accommodation with free internet. The rooms (some with city views) are equipped with plasma or LCD TVs.
If you want something exquisite (and are prepared to pay for it), then take the opportunity to stay at the Lasala Plaza Hotel. From the outdoor pool, you have a superb view of the sea and the city of San Sebastián. The spacious and modern rooms have safes, a minibar, and a bathtub. In addition, you can fill your stomach with a buffet breakfast and the hotel's restaurant highlights Basque cuisine.
- Koisi Hostel (8.5)
- Easo Pension (8.8)
- A Room In The City (8.7)
- Pension Del Mar (8.7)
- Lasala Plaza Hotel (9.4)
- Lasala Plaza Hotel (9.4)
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