Visit New Zealand - a three-week itinerary of pure beauty

Before you visit New Zealand, if anyone ever tells you that it's very, very beautiful and irresistible, don't believe them. That would be too simplistic. New Zealand is not as beautiful, attractive or appealing as we are told and as the images we see around make us believe.

It's not. Because it really is more beautiful, more attractive and unforgettable than we're told. And that's just as well, because once you've visited it, as I did, you'll never forget it.

At every corner, every bend in the road, in every valley, at the top of every mountain, when I stepped on a glacier, I asked myself with eyes moist with excitement if I could still find better in a New Zealand itinerary. And moments, kilometres, hours or days later, this country responded in the only way it knows how: with more and better.

Better landscapes, more adventure, fewer people, more starry skies, remote areas and pure natural beauty. From the Cape Reinga lighthouse at the top of New Zealand's North Island to the near-southern tip of Milford Sound. From the surreal landscapes of Lord of the Rings, Aoraki Mount Cook to the beaches of Abel Tasman National Park. Mirrored lakes, starry skies, vibrating bridges and the colourful flowers of Lake Tekapo.

Not even the almost omnipresent rain discourages or ruins the scenery. "To see the rainbow you have to face the rain". And he didn't miss my call several times either.

What to see in New Zealand - North Island

What I've described here is enough (perhaps too much) to spend three weeks in New Zealand. The North Island is marvellous: leave Auckland and travel to Cape Reinga to reach the end of the world. From deserted bays and beaches to magnificent dunes and waterfalls, there's plenty to see on New Zealand's North Island.

Aupouri Peninsula

The Aupouri Peninsula is a unique habitat with lakes, dunes, forests and marshes. These habitats are home to a wide diversity of fauna, including a large number of endangered species. The area is equally fantastic, with wide, desolate beaches such as the Ninety-Mile Beach.

While on the western side of the Aupouri Peninsula, Ninety Mile Beach receives the lion's share of visitors, Rarawa Beach has sands so pristine and white they almost hurt the eyes. And Te Werahi Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches I visited during my three weeks in New Zealand.

Haruru Falls

The beautiful and powerful Haruru Falls are located on the Waitangi River, 5 kilometres from Paihia in the Bay of Islands. In the Māori language, Haruru means "great noise" and indeed, the noise of the water can be heard quite far away. On the day I visited Haruru Falls, it was already raining and the flow was intense. 

Even when it's not raining, the falls are a picturesque place to stop and admire the scenery. According to Maori legend, an aquatic monster dwells in the lagoon below the falls - perhaps a relative of the Loch Ness monster in Scotland.

Bay of Islands

Dolphins, whales, crystal-clear waters. What do you think? I was supposed to stop at the Bay of Islands, but the weather was terrible, with rain and wind, so I decided to leave it for another time. If you have time, stop by, as I've been told the scenery is phenomenal. In fact, just take a look at some of the photographs.

Stretching between Whangaruru and Whangaroa, the Bay of Islands is a subtropical coastal area made up of 144 islands. The Bay of Islands, on the North Island, is one of New Zealand's most spectacular destinations and can be visited all year round.

The calm waters, coves and brilliant expanse of blue sea make it the perfect place to spot a variety of marine life, including dolphins, whales and seals. You'll also see lots of yachts there, as it's a place where boats sail easily. When visiting New Zealand, this is a must-see. 

Te Paki Dunes

As if everything I've described above wasn't enough, when you visit New Zealand you'll come across giant sand dunes. They're located near the Te Paki River, on the way to Cape Reinga.

These sand dunes are almost vertical and many adventurers take the opportunity to slide down them with the help of a board at high speed. When you reach the bottom of the dune, you start the upward movement with a lot of effort and then repeat and repeat until you run out of energy. I just watched...

Cape Reinga

You can't go any further. At least walking or driving, because this is the end of the world. Or, if you like, the end of the world of New Zealand's North Island. This is where the waters of the Tasman Sea meet the powerful waves of the Pacific Ocean. 

Cape Reinga is a must-see on a trip to New Zealand. However, most travellers don't reach this point, which I call New Zealand's last frontier. Cape Reinga is home to an eye-catching lighthouse, which requires a short walk to reach. At the lighthouse, several signs point to distant places in various parts of the world.

Cape Reinga is not only the northern boundary of New Zealand, it is also a spiritual place for the Māori people.

What to see in New Zealand - South Island

New Zealand's South Island lives up to its reputation: magnificent landscapes, glaciers, fjords, wine regions, the country's highest mountain, beaches and lakes so beautiful you'll shed tears of excitement. 

There is so much, so much, to explore on New Zealand's South Island that it would take a lifetime to see it all. Fortunately, wherever we travel we'll always return home more satisfied with what we've seen than disappointed with what we've left unseen. The good news is that wherever you go in the southern part of New Zealand, you'll be amazed.

Don't try to cram too much into a New Zealand itinerary, especially in the southern part, as much of what there is to discover appears when travelling from point A to point B. Give your itinerary a break. You'll thank me for this simple tip.

Whether it's a panoramic view, the chance to dive into the sea or a lush valley, keep your New Zealand travel itinerary flexible.

Queenstown

Queenstown, in the Otago region, is considered the adventure capital of New Zealand. The city is situated near the picturesque alpine lake Lake Wakatipu.

Queenstown offers everything from relaxing activities to the ultimate adrenaline rush. For example, if you want to go bungee jumping, canoeing, water sports and if you like vibrant nightlife, then this is the place to visit in New Zealand.

Hotel in Queenstown

In Queenstown I recommend Kamana Lakehouse  or the Alex Motel.

Christchurch

Christchurch combines urban renewal with heritage and culture. The city is constantly evolving, but in my opinion it's not worth spending too much time there. The food and wine experiences around Christchurch are much more exciting. Wine lovers should visit the Waipara Valley, north of the city.

Hotel in Christchurch

In Christchurch I recommend Central City Apartments or the Quest on Manchester.

Mount Aspiring and Lake Wanaka

Mount Aspiring National Park is a unique place, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The region is made up of glaciers, high mountain peaks, verdant forests, alpine meadows and Lake Wanaka.

This popular lake in the Otago region is 278 metres above sea level and spreads over 192 square kilometres - along with Lake Hawea it is one of the largest lakes in New Zealand.

Mount Aspiring National Park offers a large number of short hikes. One of these lasts about half an hour, to visit the beautiful Blue Pools. These pools of deep, clear water flow into the Makarora River and are very popular. Due to the altitude of the park, most hiking in this area should be done between November and March. 

Hotel in Wanaka

In Wanaka I recommend The Willows Wanaka or the Altamont Lodge.

Haast

The Haast region is so spectacular and remote that UNESCO has designated it a World Heritage Site, as it is a living testimony to what the world was like 200 million years ago. From Haast to Jackson Bay there are attractive dunes and beaches, lakes and swamps. And tropical forests like Westland. 

Hotel in Haast

In Haast I recommend Aspiring Court Motel or the Haast Beach Motel.

Road between Wanaka and Franz Josef

The journey between Wanaka and Franz Josef is one of the most beautiful in New Zealand. It's 284 kilometres that could take just three and a half hours. However, it's 284 kilometres of pure magic. 

If I were in your shoes (and fortunately I have been) and I were to visit New Zealand again now, I would occupy at least one day on this route. And believe me when I tell you that I have no lack of desire to return... It's an epic journey.

Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier

Franz Josef is a small town on the west coast of New Zealand's South Island. However, it's not for the beauty of the town that thousands of people flock there every year. Rather, it's for the visits to the Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier. These are two of the most accessible glaciers on the planet. 

Lose the love of money and fly over the glacier in a helicopter and land on the glacier for a few minutes. It was one of the best travel experiences in New Zealand - along with flights over the Okavango Delta in Botswana and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. This is one of thefantastic places to visit in autumn.

Hotel in Franz Josef

In Franz Josef I recommend the Aspen Court Franz Josef or the Alpine Escape.

Hokitika Gorge

The vivid turquoise waters of the Hokitika River, crossed by a suspension bridge, create the classic photo. Picnics were held there as early as 1910 and can continue to be held there over 100 years later.

You don't have to make much effort to get here, but you can take a light hike to explore the area a little further. Since 2020, a second suspension bridge over the Hokitika River in the gorge has allowed you to walk along a circular trail. I spent several hours there taking photographs. And I didn't stay any longer, because my "friends" the sand flies wouldn't let me stay any longer.

Hotel in Hokitika

In Hokitika I recommend Hokitika's Kiwi Holiday Park or the Stopforths Motel.

Punakaiki Pancake Rocks

This is one of the almost obligatory stops on an itinerary through New Zealand's South Island. The Punakaiki Pancake Rocks are an iconic place, which arose from the erosion of layers of limestone. Because of their peculiar appearance, they have been nicknamed the pancake rocks.

If you can, coincide your trip to this area with high tide, as the effect of the sea hitting the rocks is very attractive and rainbows can even appear there. Unfortunately, it was raining when I was there. Check the high tide schedule at Punakaiki Pancake Rocks.

Hotel in Punakaiki

In Punakaiki I recommend Croesus Cottages.

Akaroa

Akaroa is considered the French city of New Zealand, for its European-style buildings, historic past and food. You can also visit the Banks Peninsula nearby. Originally formed by two volcanic cones, the peninsula has two dominant craters that form Lyttelton and Akaroa harbours.

If you want to walk, then the Banks Track is the most popular route through nature reserves and rural landscapes. Akaroa and the surrounding area are full of history, adventure and unique outdoor experiences.

Hotel in Akaroa

In Akaora I recommend La Rochelle Motel.

Lake Tekapo

I've seen beautiful lakes like Lake Bled in Slovenia or Lake Atitlán in Guatemala, but Lake Tekapo in the Mackenzie region is surreal.

The palette of colours, from the violet of the flowers on the banks to the turquoise blue of the waters, is a scene to behold. It's no wonder that even on a rainy day, I spent hours on the shore taking photos. Three hours from Christchurch, Lake Tekapo is one of those places that should never be left out of your New Zealand itinerary.

My arrival at Lake Takapo was dramatic. I had just parked and a German tourist hit my car. After a long conversation, we settled the matter, and fortunately I had travel insurance.

Born out of a hydroelectric project, Lake Tekapo offers stupendous views of the Mackenzie Country and the snow-capped Southern Alps. This is how Tourism New Zealand describes it: "Picturesque by day and breathtaking by night".

The views of the mountains are reason enough to linger, but there's more. Lake Tekapo is known for its clear skies and no light pollution. For this reason, it has been inscribed on UNESCO's Dark Sky Reserve and is one of the places on the planet to see the stars, just like Alqueva, in the Alentejo, or the Namib Desert.

Lake Tekapo is still one of the best places to visit in New Zealand to observe the Southern Lights (Aurora Austral) - the Southern Hemisphere's equivalent of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). Want more reasons to visit Lake Tekapo?

Hotel on Lake Tekapo

At Lake Tekapo, I recommend the YHA Lake Tekapo.

Lake Pukaki

I wasn't even planning to drive along State Highway 80, but once I set eyes on Lake Pukaki I couldn't stop. I can't tell you how many times I've stopped along this road to watch, to marvel and, of course, to photograph.

Lake Pukaki is a glacial lake with a colour I've never seen before. Not even in Iceland, where there are beautiful places to photograph. The colour is so blue, so intense that it seems unreal. The turquoise colour of the lake is caused by the extremely fine rock particles that are dropped by the glaciers. And when the sun shines on the lake, it transforms it into a majestic scene.

Monte Cook

Another epic route when visiting New Zealand - apart from the road between Wanaka and Franz Joseph that I mentioned above - is along Lake Pukaki to Mount Cook.

If visiting New Zealand's highest mountain doesn't convince you, then I can tell you that the road there is superb (State Highway 80). I hadn't originally planned on travelling to Mount Cook, but I knew as soon as I got there how much I would have regretted it. 

Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is home to the country's highest mountains and longest glaciers. It is a natural alpine skyscraper. Although Aoraki Mount Cook covers 23 summits over 3000 metres high, it is very accessible. 

There are several short walks and if you ask at the Aoraki Mount Cook Alpine Lodge where I stayed, you'll get all the information. Like Lake Tekapo, this area of Aoraki Mount Cook is part of the Dark Sky Reserve.

Hotel in Mount Cook

At Monte Cook, I recommend the fantastic Aoraki Mount Cook Alpine Lodge.

Hiking on Mount Cook

Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is a great place to discover on foot. The rugged landscapes of ice and rock are phenomenal and so are some of the hikes I've done here - Hooker Valley Track. 

The trail took me into the Hooker Valley and along the Hooker River, ending at the glacier lake, where there are incredible views of Aoraki Mount Cook. Along the way you'll have to cross three bridges and dreamy landscapes.

Enjoy the inspiring landscapes of the Southern Alps over 10 kilometres (round trip), but don't neglect the weather, as it can change quickly in alpine environments. The route takes around three to four hours to complete, bearing in mind that you'll be stopping quite a few times to take photographs.

Milford Sound

A trip to New Zealand wouldn't be complete without seeing Milford Sound. Located in the south-west of the South Island, in Fiordland National Park, the fjord stretches for 16 kilometres, flanked by steep cliffs. 

Milford Sound is the best known and most visited of the fjords in Fiordland National Park, but you can also visit the Doubtful Sound. This is the deepest of the "Sounds", surrounded by ancient rainforest and wildlife. The "Sounds" are formed when a river valley is flooded by the sea, while Milford Sound was carved out by the erosion of glacial ice.

Check out this complete guide to visit Milford Sound.

Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park was the end point of my trip to New Zealand. In this park, the watchwords are peace, serenity and tranquillity. Visit the famous Split Apple Rock (it looks like an apple split in half), the Arches of Tonga or the wildlife of the Island of Tonga.

And if you have time, go sea kayaking. All year round, you'll find people kayaking in the crystal-clear waters of Tasman Bay, exploring the hidden coves and arches that are nestled between the extensive coastline. It's one of the most interesting ways to explore this park. The other is scenic helicopter flights.

The park is accessible from Marahau and Kaiteriteri to the south, and from Golden Bay and Totaranui to the north. Most water taxi services depart from Marahau or Kaiteriteri and head north to Totaranui. Walk along the impressive Falls River Swing Bridge to the beach of Medlands.

Hotel in Abel Tasman

In the Abel Tasman Park, I recommend Abbey Court Motel or the Buena Vista Apartment.

Wine tasting (and lamb)

Sorry vegetarians, but it's unthinkable to visit New Zealand and not try succulent lamb chops. Pair them with a wine from the Marlborough or Central Otago wine regions and there's no need to say more. In fact, you won't even be able to say anything else, as you'll be occupied with the aromas of the meal and the nectar of the gods to accompany it.