To visit Iceland is to discover active volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, beaches, glaciers, fjords, elves, Floki from the Vikings series and perhaps John Snow from Game of Thrones. Maybe I'm exaggerating about the last three, but believe me when I tell you that this country will remain in your memory forever. And then you'll wonder how you went so long without visiting this country in Europe.
How can such a small island have such diverse and beautiful landscapes? And with scenery that changes every few kilometres - from black lava fields to verdant valleys, from lunar plateaus to pristine glaciers, from refreshing waterfalls to scalding water gushing from the bottom of the earth.
There are so many places and contrasting landscapes that fitting them all into an Iceland itinerary seems almost impossible. This island is known for being the land of fire and ice. You can visit Iceland in summer or winter, but no matter when you arrive in this sparsely populated country on the edge of the Arctic Circle, you'll never forget it.
Iceland - the land of fire and ice
Many travellers began to hear about this nation when, in 2010, the volcano with the unpronounceable name "Eyjafjallajokull" caused chaos in Europe. The ash cloud caused hundreds of flights to be cancelled over several days on the European continent.
And years later, it became even more popular when it became known that many locations in the country were going to be used for the Game of Thrones series. I didn't visit this destination for any of these reasons, as it was already on my radar of priorities long before any of these events.
And don't be intimidated by the prices, as there are many ways to save money in Iceland. And you may even meet other travellers in Iceland.
- Hotel in Iceland - Find the ideal accommodation in Iceland, with incredible offers and excellent facilities
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What to see in Iceland
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
If you only have a short time to visit Iceland and want to see the island's most diverse landscapes and main features, all you have to do is pick up your hire car and travel to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
Snaefellsnes is known as Iceland in miniature, as it is here that you can see a large part of the country's landscapes represented. The area was declared a National Park in 2001. The park is covered with attractive hiking trails, including along the glacier - if you visit the country in winter.
Some of the most enigmatic places are the Snaefellsjokull glacier, the rocky volcanic spires of Lóndrangar and the small but attractive village of Búdir.
The Snaefellsnes Peninsula is one of the most sought-after areas on an Iceland holiday itinerary, especially to take a photo at the base of Kirkjufell - one of the country's most iconic mountains and one that featured in Game of Thrones.
Recommended hotels in Snaefellsnes
Beaches
When you visit Iceland, the beach isn't the first thing that comes to mind. There are, however, some interesting ones to explore - even if it's not for bathing. In tropical areas, beach descriptions usually start with white sands and turquoise waters. On a trip to this Nordic country, the description is the opposite: black sands and dark waters.
Located near the small town of Vik, Reynisfjara is a popular black sand beach, recognisable by its huge basalt pillars and extensive landscapes. As with almost everything in Iceland, there are legends involved. For this reason, these large basalt columns are trolls that turned to stone.
A short distance from Reynisfjara is the magnificent rock arch of Dyrhólaey - another place that should be on your Iceland itinerary. From the top of this arch, you'll get incredible views of the surrounding area, but Dyrhólaey is also one of the places to see puffins, especially during spring and summer.
Another beach that stands out is Djúpalón, in Snaefellsjokull National Park. The area is recognised for its dramatic black sands and creative rock formations, some of which resemble... trolls. Finally, one of the most beautiful is Raudasandur on the Látrabjarg Peninsula. This beach in the Westfjords is distinguished by the reddish colour of the long sandy beach and the turquoise tones of the lagoon.
When visiting any of these beaches, be very careful and don't get too close to the sea, as it conceals many dangers such as sudden waves. These huge waves arrive without warning, have swept away unwary holidaymakers and, in Reynisfjara, there have even been fatalities.
Jokulsarlon Lagoon
Jokulsarlon Lagoon is one of the most beautiful places in Iceland and one where I spent a lot of time just enjoying the calm and purity of the landscape. Slowly, the icebergs detach themselves from the glacial tongue and move towards the ocean.
When they reach the Atlantic, the waves push these large chunks of ice onto Diamond Beach - a black sand beach. The contrast between the crystalline blue and the grains of volcanic sand is sublime.
Now for the first secret: the lagoon will probably be very crowded with visitors until 4pm or 5pm every day. After that, the buses start to disappear and the landscape becomes even more beautiful.
The second secret is Fjallsarlon Lagoon. Unlike Jokulsarlon, only a small number of visitors come here, so it's a very peaceful place to stay while the other lagoon doesn't empty (of people).
You may have spent even more time here than in Jokulsarlon. Depending on the conditions, you can visit a cave and walk on the ice. This type of activity can be very dangerous, so it's best to go on a tour.
The lagoons are attractions in themselves, but be prepared (and leave time) for the beauty of the route between Vik and Jokulsarlon.
Recommended hotels in Jokulsarlon
Hornstrandir Nature Reserve
Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is the northernmost part of the West Fjords. Much of the country is made up of remote locations and rugged landscapes, but the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve goes beyond that: cliffs, crags and waterfalls proliferate.
Here the landscape is dominated by the absence of human beings and the presence of countless wild species. If you want to go hiking in Iceland, this is one of the favourite places to do it. In this remote part of the country you may come across Arctic foxes, as well as seals and some whales.
Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is the most visited geothermal spa in the country. Perhaps because of its convenient location: just 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport and 45 minutes from Reykjavik city centre. The water in the hot springs is around 37 degrees and is considered to be highly beneficial for health.
The hot pool, with its blue waters, is rich in minerals and silica. Bathing here is said to rejuvenate even the most tired spirit and body. The alleged healing properties attract visitors from all over the world, as it has long been believed that various illnesses can be treated here. Now a real industry has sprung up around the Blue Lagoon, first with locals and then foreigners.
An alternative to the Blue Lagoon is the Seljavallalaug pool, which dates back to 1923, making it one of the oldest pools in the country. The pool is part of a slope at the base of a mountain and is filled with water flowing down the rock. Here you can enjoy the geothermal waters while admiring the natural landscape.
Recommended hotels in Reykjavik
Golden Circle and Diamond Circle
The Golden Circle is one of the most popular tourist routes. The route includes the Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir and Thingvellir National Park. You'll also find the Tectonic Plates, the former seat of the Icelandic Parliament, Kerid Crater and the Strokkur geyser.
The Golden Circle is perfect for a three- or five-day itinerary in Iceland. If you're visiting Iceland for a short time but want to see as many of the main sights as possible, the Golden Circle is the perfect solution, as it allows you to see these sights in a single day.
The Diamond Circle can be described as a 250-kilometre route that takes in some of the country's most stunning places such as Húsavík, the Asbyrgi Gorge, Lake Myvatn and the Godafoss and Dettifoss waterfalls - some of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland.
Thingvellir National Park
Thingvellir or Pingvellir is the site of the world's oldest parliament and where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. As the plates move apart, fissures or cracks appear in the landscape, resulting in rivers, lakes and irregular ravines. Between the two plates is a rift, called Silfra, located in Lake Thingvallavatn .
There you can dive between the two continents in crystal-clear, glacial waters. Thingvellir is also home to numerous easy hiking trails. Thingvellir National Park is one of three designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites, along with Surtsey Island and Vatnajokull National Park.
Recommended hotels in Thingvellir
Krafla-Viti
Due to its geographical location, the territory seems to be perpetually covered in ice, but underground it's a different story. This is one of the regions with the most volcanoes in the world - many active. Located near Lake Myvatn, Krafla-Viti is a huge crater, around 10 kilometres in diameter, formed during an explosive eruption.
The landscape really is breathtaking, with intense blue waters, in contrast to the neighbouring Hverfell, which is black. Near Askja, in Vatnajokul National Park, there is another crater, which is (rather) more complicated to reach. You have to overcome the difficult Dyngjufjoll Mountains.
Landmannalaugar Nature Reserve
Remote and splendid define Landmannalaugar National Park. This is one of the most popular destinations, 195 kilometres from Reykjavik. However, visiting this remote part requires a 4×4 vehicle.
Unfortunately, I only had a normal car and couldn't get there. It's one of the places I most want to see when I'm travelling around Iceland again. The roads are only open in the summer, between June and September/October.
The main features of the mystical landscape are the multicoloured mountains, the Hekla volcano and extensive lava fields.
Myrdalsjokull and Maelifell Volcano
Not far from Landmannalaugar is the Myrdalsjokull Glacier Park, which can also only be visited during the summer. The Maelifell volcano is the main attraction in this area and the green moss that covers it contrasts beautifully with the black volcanic sands. Another beautiful area is Eyjafjallajokull.
Asbyrgi Gorge
In the north-east, there is a surreal landscape: Asbyrgi. The cliffs that surround this place make for some of the most dramatic photos of this three kilometre long gorge.
Asbyrgi is so unusual that the island's first inhabitants attributed the creation of this place to divine intervention. They believed that the open space was caused by the horseshoe of Odin - the Viking's greatest god, whom they saw as the creator of the world.
Another magnificent site is the Fjadrargljufur Gorge, halfway between Vik and Hof, which is thought to have been formed by the movement of ice in the Land of Fire.
Eastfjords (East Fjords)
The East Fjords are one of the least populated areas. The main town, Egilsstadir, is more than 7 hours from the Icelandic capital, Reykjavik.
The Eastfjords allow you to explore landscapes away from the crowds, most notably Vatnajokull National Park. Inside the park is the Skaftafell nature reserve with its awe-inspiring landscapes.
The Skaftafell ice cave, about four hours from the capital, is the largest in Europe and can only be visited in winter. This is the time of year when the consistency of the ice allows you to get in and out safely. If you visit at the right time, you can see the incredible beauty of the glacier. Also in the park, you can marvel at the Svartifoss waterfall.
Recommended hotels in the Eastfjords
Westfjords (West Fjords)
The West Fjords is a large peninsula in the north-west of the country and is one of the areas I most want to revisit. It's an area of small towns, fishing villages, mountains, waterfalls and lakes. More importantly, it is an area of extreme natural beauty, where the Húnaflói and Breidafjordur fjords stand out,
Uninhabited areas such as Geirbjofsfjordur, the beautiful Raudasandur beach or the tip of Látrabjarg should also be on your itinerary in Iceland. If you'd prefer to bathe in much less crowded hot springs, you can do so at Krossholt, near Brjánslaekir. In winter, many of the roads are impassable.
Recommended hotel in the Westfjords
Lake Mývatn
About an hour from Akureyri you'll come across Lake Mývatn. The whole area is recognised for its wildlife and rich landscapes. The lake was probably formed as a result of a major volcanic eruption.
In this region, if you want to follow in the footsteps (and dives) of John Snow's character in Game of Thrones, explore the Grjótagja hot spring. The cave was the filming location for one of the love scenes between Snow and the wildling Ygritte. If New Zealand was the favourite location for Lord of the Rings, Iceland was one of the locations chosen for this globally successful series.
If you visit Iceland in the summer and have time to get to Lake Mývatn, be prepared with an anti-mosquito net. There are millions of them and they are unforgiving. In fact, one of the reasons I spent less time there was because of these unbearable insects. Take a net and repellent or don't visit Lake Mývatn in summer. In winter, you won't have this problem.
Recommended hotels on Lake Mývatn
Namafjall
This earth fissure on the outskirts of Lake Myvatn is picturesque and attracts many visitors due to the bubbling volcanic mud. It's a desolate yet incredibly beautiful area. It's a desert, but with lots of natural activity. Nobody lives there, but it's a living area. If you can, stop here for an hour or two and explore this place on foot.
Waterfalls
In Icelandic, "Foss" means waterfall. And there's no shortage of waterfalls all over the country. Some are more powerful, with unbelievable flows, and others you can walk behind. As there are so many waterfalls - some of them temporary - I've written an article with some of the Iceland's most beautiful waterfalls.
Whale watching
It was in Húsavík that I had the opportunity to go on a whale watching tour. And, as the photo proves, I did see several on this trip through the waters of the North Atlantic. Tour operators estimate that there is an 80 to 90 per cent chance of seeing these magnificent animals.
This tour, for example, takes around three hours, includes a guide who specialises in whales, hot drinks and cakes and, most importantly, very warm clothes. I had to wear the clothes provided because it was so cold, even in summer. The tour isn't the cheapest, but it's not every day that I get to be so close to whales and dolphins.
Another option is to go whale watching in Reykjavik or Akureyri, but it's not for nothing that Húsavík is nicknamed "the whale watching capital of Europe".
Recommended hotels in Húsavík
- Árból Guesthouse (Húsavík)
- Langavatn Guesthouse (Húsavík)
Strokkur
About 90 minutes by car from Reykjavik, Strokkur Geysir is the country's most popular geyser. This highly active hot spring area near the Hvítá River is an obligatory stop on the Golden Circle. I spent many minutes here trying to get the perfect shot.
Strokkur shoots water 30 metres into the air, but be aware that you could be splashed by this scalding water, so don't get too close. Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes.
Recommended hotels in Strokkur
Other places to see in Iceland
- Breidamerkurjokull
- Skogar Village
- Svalbardseyri
- Kerlingarfjöll
- Vestrahorn
- Reykjavik
- Hvitserkur
- Hamarsfjordur
- Eldhraun lava field
- Leirhnjukur
- Glymur Waterfall
- Morsárfoss
- Selfoss
- Háifoss
- Hengifoss
- Brúarfoss
- Hraunfossar
- Sigoldugljufur
Map of places to see in Iceland
Extra information
What to wear in Iceland - 10 essentials
It is highly recommended to dress in three layers and prepare for unpredictable periods of rainy, windy and cold weather - windproof and waterproof layers are essential.
However, you can experience several seasons in one day. During a trip to Iceland, I've been in sub-zero temperatures (and my tent was flooded by a huge downpour), as well as relaxing in the sun in temperatures of 25 degrees.
- Waterproof jacket
- Waterproof trousers
- Hat
- Sunglasses
- Polar jacket
- Scarf
- Gloves
- Beanie
- Walking boots or trainers
- Swimsuit
Visas for Iceland
Most citizens don't need a visa to visit Iceland. All you need is a passport.
How many days in Iceland?
Now that you have an idea of what there is to see, the next question is: how many days to stay in Iceland? The answer depends firstly on the time of year you're travelling. If you visit Iceland in summer, when the days are long, you'll need less time than in winter.
I was in the country in June, at the height of summer, and I always woke up early and went to bed late. In fact, there were days (or nights) when I was photographing a waterfall, completely alone, at midnight...
My days usually ended around 21.00. You need at least 5 days to see the main landmarks along the south coast, the Golden Circle and Reykjavik. See also 20 essential tips for your first trip to Iceland.
If you want to go round the island via the Ring Road, then I suggest you take the places I've listed in this article and work out an itinerary for 10 days in Iceland. If you still want to visit the interior of the country or the Westfjords, then you'll need to spend at least two weeks in Iceland.
This is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular countries on the planet. The best way to get to know it is to hire a car, which gives you the freedom to plan and change your itinerary and stop along the way.
I use Discovercars to find the best prices.
Below are some ideas for various routes in Iceland. These are just suggestions, as there are countless ways to explore this phenomenal country. These itineraries are a bit rushed, but they're good for your first visit to the country - so you can get the hang of it.
If you want to walk on land or ice, you'll need more time. In fact, I'd even recommend picking fewer spots and going more slowly.
5-day itinerary in Iceland
Day 1: Reykjavik
Day 2: Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Day 3: Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Strokkur, Gullfoss)
Day 4: Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Dyrhólaey
Day 5: Reykjavik
7-day itinerary in Iceland
Day 1: Reykjavik
Day 2: Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Day 3: Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Strokkur, Gullfoss)
Day 4: Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Dyrhólaey
Day 5: Jokulsarlon
Day 6: Skaftafell, Vatnajokull National Park
Day 7: Reykjavik, Blue Lagoon
10-day itinerary in Iceland
Day 1: Reykjavik
Day 2: Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Day 3: Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Strokkur, Gullfoss)
Day 4: Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Dyrhólaey
Day 5: Skaftafell, Jokulsarlon, Vatnajokull National Park
Day 6: Eastfjords (West Fjords)
Day 7: Lake Myvatn, Namafjall
Day 8: Whale watching in Husavik, Godafoss
Day 9: Return to Reykjavik
Day 10: Reykjavik, Blue Lagoon
When to visit Iceland?
There's something special and unique about each season - it's one of the country's strengths. There's an Icelandic expression that says that if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes and everything will be different. You can go in summer, when the sun doesn't set, in June, or go in the darkness of winter, when the sun is barely visible, but you're illuminated and blessed by the Northern Lights.
In summer, there are so many hours to explore the country that you hardly sleep, the chances of seeing whales and puffins increase and the weather is great for walking. The biggest disadvantage of travelling in summer is the prices and the floods of tourists.
I've visited Iceland in all seasons and although I really enjoyed travelling in summer, I prefer the island during autumn or spring, when there are fewer people, the landscapes are painted in colour, the light for photography is perfect, there are fewer crowds, a (relatively) pleasant climate and it's possible to see the Aurora Borealis.
The winter months, from November to March, are the best time to tour the ice caves and observe the Northern Lights, as the days are much shorter - only four or five hours of sunlight in December and January. The downside is that some areas will be inaccessible due to snowfall.
Photography in Iceland
Iceland is known for its exceptional beauty and landscapes of extreme contrasts. Even those with little experience of photography can return with some good images. If, however, you want to return home with special photos, I recommend taking a photography workshop with me.
Internet and Wi-Fi
The most affordable way to access the internet is to buy this eSIM (with a 15% discount). Discover the world without worrying about roaming and access high-speed internet in over 190 countries.
Money in Iceland
The official currency is the Icelandic krona (ISK). Card payments are common and there is no shortage of cash withdrawal machines (ATMs). However, when travelling to Iceland you will hardly need to use cash. Most people use debit or credit cards to make purchases.
I use the Wise card and the Revolut card to avoid bank fees and commissions. I always travel with both.
How to get to Iceland
International flights arrive at Keflavik Airport, 50 kilometres from the capital Reykjavik, but there are also those who arrive by cruise ship or (less commonly) by ferry from Denmark.
Find the routes and the lowest prices here.
Hire a car
If you have your own car, it's much easier. Choose to hire a car with Discovercars. This site allows you to compare prices and, in many cases, you can cancel the rental free of charge up to 48 hours before departure.
Hotel in Iceland
When it comes to deciding where to stay in Iceland, the answer can vary from camping to local accommodation. If you want to be more comfortable and not risk getting your tent flooded (as happened to me on one of the days), then I suggest these hotels for your itinerary.
- Tungata (Reykjavik)
- Freyja Guesthouse & Suites (Reykjavik)
- The Old Post Office Guesthouse (Snæfellsnes)
- Við Hafið Guesthouse (Snæfellsnes)
- Myrkholt Farm (Strokkur)
- Litli Geysir Hotel (Strokkur)
- ION Adventure Hotel (Thingvellir)
- Hotel Grimsborgir (Thingvellir)
- Skyrhúsid Guesthouse (Jokulsarlon)
- Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon (Jokulsarlon)
- Hotel Skaftafell (Eastfjords)
- Road 62 Hagi 2 (Westfjords)
- Harbour Inn - Guesthouse (Westfjords)
- Skútustadir Guesthouse (Myvatn)
- Vogafjós Farm (Myvatn)
- Árból Guesthouse (Húsavík)
Travel Insurance
Never travel without travel insurance. I recommend IATI Seguros or Heymondo (if you use either of these links you get a 5% discount). They are the best travel insurance (and the cheapest) and have Covid-19 protection.
Whenever you want to book a flight, a hotel or buy travel insurance, use the platforms I recommend and trust. All you have to do is click on the links below before researching your trips.
You don't pay extra for using these links.
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- Photography workshops — learn photography with me
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I've been to 60 countries, so if you have a trip in mind with a group of friends, family or work colleagues, contact me and I'll be happy to plan, organise and lead the trip you want. The itinerary can be customised, as can the budget and activities.
See the travel calendar and sign up or tell me where you want to travel as a group and I'll take care of everything.
