I've been to Ankara more than once, even after (almost) vowing never to return. However, there are enough attractions to create a one-day itinerary in Ankara.
As the capital and administrative centre of Turkey (not Istanbul as is sometimes mistaken), the city symbolises independence and modernity for the Turkish people and has contemporary and historical elements in different areas of the city. Ankara has not stopped growing, which together with its history has created a fusion of tradition and modernisation.
The city isn't an immediate attraction when you're thinking of travelling to Turkey, but if you spend 24 hours there you'll have the opportunity to deepen your cultural knowledge of Turkey. Even without the passionate charisma of Istanbul or the magic of Cappadocia, in the largest city in the Anatolian region, there are places - such as the Citadel or Ataturk's Mausoleum - that must be included in a day trip to Ankara.
A day in Ankara - what to do, see and visit
1 Ankara Citadel (Kalesi)
Firstly, only if you walk up the streets to reach the Ankara Citadel (or castle) will you fully realise the size of the city - and get great panoramic views.
Ankara has many interesting archaeological sites, but only a few structures around the citadel have survived the appetite for development.
Originally built as a military structure, the Ankara Citadel is now one of the most popular tourist destinations. The citadel is compact, consisting of four huge walls and dozens of pentagonal towers on top. Although climbing the hill requires effort, the magnificent view is a strong incentive not to give up this place on a 24-hour itinerary in Ankara.
Ankara Citadel opening hours
9h00 - 18h00
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2 Streets of the old quarter
Combine a visit to the Ankara Citadel with a walk through the historic streets. There you'll find cobbled alleys with Ottoman-style houses and small shops selling a bit of everything.
It's a tourist area, but it should be emphasised that tourism in Ankara is low. When I was in the Citadel, for example, there were only half a dozen Turkish tourists wandering around, as well as in the surrounding streets. It's worth including Ankara on a trip to Turkey.
3 Anitkabir
Anitkabir is a place that is hard to ignore. The monument is also home to the mausoleum of the first president of the Republic of Turkey, Ataturk. Anitkabir is divided into four parts, one of which is the Lion Road, where you can watch the military parade of Turkish soldiers. And as luck would have it, my visit to Anitkabir coincided with exactly one of these moments.
The other sections include the Peace Park, a natural area where there is even a Turkish flag made out of flowers. The rest of the space is filled with Ceremonial Square and the Hall of Honour - home to Ataturk's tomb. Set aside at least 90 minutes of your day trip to Ankara to see Anitkabir.
Anitkabir Mausoleum opening hours
9h00 - 17h00 (16h00 in winter) | Last entry is about 45 minutes before closing.
4 Atakule Tower
Atakule is a communications and observation tower with a height of 125 metres. The tower's name comes from the words 'Ata' (which means ancestor and also alludes to Ataturk) and 'kule' (which means tower). Atakule was erected in 1989 in the Çankaya area and has an open terrace (and a restaurant) that allows visitors to look out over the city while savouring a meal.
Atakule Tower opening hours
11h00 - 19h00
5 Gençlik Park
Gençlik Park is a public park which, as well as greenery and lakes, also has an amusement park, an open-air theatre and two miniature trains. There are several Gençlik Park kiosks selling, for example, typical Turkish ice cream and corn. And every evening there's a light show on the main lake. It's a great place to escape Ankara's crazy traffic and spend an hour or two relaxing - or taking shelter from the city's merciless heat.
6 Kocatepe Mosque
The Kocatepe Mosque is the largest mosque in Ankara. Built between 1967 and 1987 in the Kocatepe district of Kizilay, it covers 4,500 square metres and the four 88-metre-high minarets even have lifts. The dome is covered in gold.
Its size and position give it an enviable position in the Turkish capital. The Kocatepe Mosque is said to be able to hold up to 24,000 people in prayer at one time. You may have seen several mosques while travelling in Turkey, but the size of Kocatepe is absurd.
7 Gastronomy in Ankara
When you walk around Ankara it's impossible not to reach into your pocket (and purse) to try some street food. Turkish food is very diverse, a fusion between the Middle East, Central Asia and the Balkans, catering for (almost) all palates. The exception will be vegetarians, as Turkish cuisine is predominantly carnivorous.
If you go to a restaurant, most meals are served with salad, usually with corn, tomatoes, radish and pickles. And bread, of course. Also try the fantastic lentil soup (mercimek) - which I now also make at home.
In Ankara I found the biggest döner kebap (or rotating meat skewer) I've ever seen. On the streets you'll also find fresh juices, crunchy simit, chestnuts (nice and warm) or a cake (whose name I don't know, but it looks like a strudel), with carob and cinnamon. All I can say is that it was very, very good. You can see what it looks like in this picture.
Extra information
When to visit Ankara
Ankara has a continental climate due to its inland location. The summer months (from June to September) represent the tourist season, with sunshine and hot days (35 degrees or more), while the winters are very cold (down to -10 degrees) and with snowfall.
The best time to visit Ankara is during the dry season, from May to October. I was in Ankara in the spring and the weather was great, apart from a brief shower on one of the days.
Save time (and money)
If you want to immerse yourself even more in the local culture, optimise your trip and even save money, take guided tours and experiences in Ankara. Book the best tours and activities in advance. Skip the queues and get your entrances to monumentsYou'll have more time to enjoy your trip.
Do I need a visa to visit Turkey?
Since March 2020, most citizens do not need a visa to visit Turkey, up to a maximum stay of 90 days. All you need to present is your Citizen's Card or Passport, although I recommend the Passport.
Most citizens are exempt from a visa requirement for Turkey and are allowed to stay for up to 90 days.
Is it safe to visit Ankara?
I've been to Turkey's capital more than once and I've never felt unsafe in Ankara. Both night and day, I saw no reason to suspect any insecurity. In the area where I stayed, where there were offices and universities, the streets were almost deserted after 8pm. In any case, use your common sense.
Internet and Wi-Fi
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How to travel to Ankara | All transport
Ankara is Central Anatolia's transport hub for air and land routes.
Aeroplane
Turkish Airlines, AnadoluJet or Pegasus Airlines have frequent flights to and from Istanbul, and also to many other cities throughout the country, such as Konya or Bodrum.
Esenboga Airport is 30 km from Ankara city centre, accessible by bus from the bus terminal (Ankara Otogari ASTI) or the railway station (Ankara Gar).
Train
Being centrally located in Turkey, Ankara is the centre of the Turkish rail network and you can get there from many cities. I used the high-speed train to get to and from Ankara and I recommend it because the services are modern and the prices are very affordable.
The train journey from Istanbul (Pendik) takes around three hours and 30 minutes, but there are also regular connections to Eskisehir, Konya, Izmir and even to the east of Turkey (the Dogu Ekspresi), in the direction of Iran. Train tickets can be bought online.
Bus
The huge bus terminal (Ankara Otogari ASTI) is the centre of the country's road transport network, with routes to all parts of Turkey at any time of the day and night. The bus journey from Ankara to Istanbul takes approximately five hours. See how to buy bus tickets in Turkey.
Metro | Ankaray
Ankara has two underground trains: the traditional metro and the Ankaray. You can buy a magnetic card at any station and top it up with the amount you want to use when travelling on Ankaray, the Metro and Ankara's buses.
Hire a car
If you have your own car, it's much easier. Choose to hire a car with Discovercars. This site allows you to compare prices and, in many cases, you can cancel the rental free of charge up to 48 hours before departure.
The traffic in Ankara is chaotic and the noise is immense, so I advise against driving in Ankara. On the other hand, there are taxis by the thousands in Ankara, but it's not always easy to negotiate with these drivers.
Hotel in Ankara - where to sleep soundly
Accommodation in Ankara isn't one of the cheapest in Turkey, but you can still spend the night in the capital for reasonable prices. My first recommendation - the Koza Suite Hotel - features modern décor, air conditioning, a kettle and buffet breakfast.
For a little more, the Guvenay Business Hotel has a terrace with city views, a restaurant, 24-hour reception, free Wi-Fi and a breakfast praised by guests.
With elegance, in Ankara's Kavaklidere neighbourhood, there is also the Warwick Ankara. The rooms are modern and airy and there are plenty of shops and restaurants around the hotel.
In the city centre, the Point Hotel Ankara has a spa and gym, as well as rooms with contemporary décor - overlooking the city - and toiletries.
The last suggestion is the Divan Cukurhan, located very close to the Ankara Citadel, which offers air-conditioned rooms, free internet access and gourmet local and international cuisine, as well as an excellent breakfast.
- Guvenay Business Hotel (9.1)
- Warwick Ankara (9.1)
- Point Hotel Ankara (9.2)
- Divan Cukurhan (9.4)
- Koza Suite Hotel (8.9)
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