Visiting Tortuguero National Park was, without a doubt, the highlight of my trip to Costa Rica.
It attracts wildlife enthusiasts from all over the world and many arrive to witness a unique event: the nesting of thousands of sea turtles. Tortuguero National Park was declared on 24 September 1970 and the boundaries have been extended on three occasions (1980, 1995 and 1998) - two thirds of the park is made up of marine/river area.
Located on the northern coast of the Caribbean, this Costa Rican area is phenomenal. It is a dense labyrinth of channels, home to many species of exotic birds, insects, monkeys, frogs, caymans and sharks. The area often resembles the Pantanal in Brazil or the Amazon jungle. On one side, the calm brown waters of the meandering canals, on the other the incessant rolling Caribbean Sea.
The unique landscape of Tortuguero National Park is a remote area where it's not easy to get to, and perhaps that's what has preserved its unusual allure and why mass tourism isn't (yet) there. This is one of the best places in Central America (if not the best) to observe turtle nesting up close.
When you visit Tortuguero, in the province of Limon, you'll find a very humid tropical forest, where it rains a lot and where nature regenerates itself: 400 species of trees, 2,200 species of plants, 400 species of birds, 60 species of amphibians, 30 species of freshwater fish and endangered mammals: tapirs, monkeys, caymans, sloths.
Here I found an unrivalled tranquillity that is unrivalled in other areas of Costa Rica. It's the antithesis of Manuel Antonio Park. The canals, lagoons and rivers are of great scenic beauty and even before you reach Tortuguero, you're already travelling.
What to do in Tortuguero National Park
It's in the heart of the jungle and it's not a typical holiday destination, not even a resort. There aren't many amenities, but the experience is one of the most exemplary I've ever had as a traveller. This is a paradise for ecological travel, full of biodiversity. And that's exactly why Tortuguero National Park is worth a visit.
You won't dine in a Michelin restaurant, but you will enjoy tropical fruits. You won't stay in a resort and eat the same food as you do at home, but you'll forever remember being in the heart of the jungle.
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Tortuguero Turtle Tour
Thousands of people visit Tortuguero in Costa Rica to watch the turtles arrive. Four different species of sea turtles come to this Caribbean region every year to nest.
In essence, it's a homecoming for these animals, as they are the same turtles returning to the place where they were born. When they return, they will lay the next generation of eggs and start a new life cycle. It's a natural process that repeats itself every year.
Turtle nesting times vary depending on the species of turtle. The main season is between early March and mid-October, but the busiest period is between June and October when thousands of green turtles (chelonia mydas) flow into the sands of Tortuguero.
Turtle nesting walks can be organised with a licensed guide at your hotel. The walks take place at night and last about two hours, but remember that you are not allowed to use cameras or lights and that you should wear dark clothing to avoid interfering with the turtles' action.
Costa Ricans are very proud of the country's natural resources (and rightly so) and protect the environment at all costs, not least the turtles.
Explore the village of Tortuguero
The village of Tortuguero is a small town covered in tropical forest. Tortuguero was once a fishing village, which also subsisted on coconut and cocoa plantations. Today, the priority is conservation and environmental research projects and, of course, tourism.
The village has a population of around 2,000 people, and tourism is their main livelihood, as most people work in hotels, restaurants or as tour guides. It's worth taking a trip to the village to meet the people who live there in the middle of this natural jewel of Costa Rica.
Strolling along the canals and wildlife
Tortuguero is a fantastic location for migratory and resident bird species due to its variety of habitats between forest, freshwater and saltwater. As there are no roads in Tortuguero, wildlife watching trips are made in small boats along the beautiful canals.
The brownish or almost black water allows for an almost perfect reflection of the surrounding forests - a magnificent setting. A wide variety of birds such as macaws, hawks, owls and cuckoos are just some of the bird species that can be found within the park.
The importance of wildlife is such that the area is home to around 50 per cent of Costa Rica's bird and reptile species. When hiking along the coast or taking boat trips along the canals, you can spot monkeys, tapirs and quincaju. This is a nocturnal mammal with a rounded head, small ears and snout, which feeds on fruit and insects and lives in Central and South America.
To the north, the Barra del Colorado Wildlife Refuge is part of the Tortuguero Conservation Area. There are parts of the national park where motorised boats can't go, only kayaks, so navigate the canals this way.
See the beaches in Tortuguero
Although there are beaches in Tortuguero, it is not advisable to swim in these waters - for several reasons. Firstly, the waves and tides are strong and treacherous. Not convinced?
I'll tell you that on the sea side, the waters are patrolled by... sharks, while on the canal side they are guarded by... caymans. I didn't see any sharks, but I can assure you that I saw several caymans while I was out on the boat.
Walking in the National Park
You can walk the various trails of the Tortuguero National Park or climb Cerro Tortuguero for incredible views of the canals and the beach. You can go with a guide or walk on your own.
Extra information
Price of entry to Tortuguero
The entrance fee to Tortuguero is 15 US dollars for adults and 5 dollars for children. The park is open from 6am to 6pm.
What to take to Tortuguero
Tortuguero is a tropical jungle destination, so be prepared for rain and insects. Take waterproof, light and cool clothing.
Don't forget a hat, mosquito repellent, water, binoculars and a camera. You can take some drinks or food with you if you feel like a snack in the middle of the day.
How many days in Tortuguero National Park
I spent two nights in Tortuguero National Park and about two full days in total. To be honest, I didn't think it was enough, as I wanted to explore the canals more. When I return to Costa Rica, I plan to spend at least three days in Tortuguero.
When to visit Tortuguero National Park
Heat, humidity and rain are almost omnipresent travelling companions on a trip to Tortuguero. This is one of the rainiest parts of Costa Rica, which contributes to biodiversity.
The rainy season is from January to...December. That's right, but the months with the highest rainfall are July and December. It rains all year round, but a little less in March, April and October. I was in the region in April and didn't get any rain.
If you want to visit Tortuguero National Park during the spawning season, book your accommodation well in advance and you'll have the chance to see more than 2,000 sea turtles come ashore.
Four different species of turtles nest on Playa Tortuguero. The best time to visit Tortuguero to see turtles is between June/July and October, with September and October being the best months.
If you want to visit Tortuguero National Park in November, you won't be able to watch the turtles lay their eggs, but there is another fantastic natural spectacle: the hatching of the turtle hatchlings and their first steps towards the sea.
Temperatures in Tortuguero
The average temperature in Tortuguero is 30 degrees and the humidity is always very high.
Internet and Wi-Fi
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Money in Tortuguero
Costa Rica's official currency is the Costa Rican colón (CRC), but the US dollar is also widely used. Due to its remote location, there are no banks or ATMs in Tortuguero. Therefore, withdraw colones in San Jose or another city before travelling to Tortuguero.
I use the Wise card and the Revolut card to avoid bank fees and commissions. I always travel with both.
How to get to Tortuguero National Park
It's not easy to get to Tortuguero. On the one hand, that's a good thing, as it doesn't get too crowded. In fact, some people never visit it even when travelling to Costa Rica, sticking to the easiest circuit that includes the Manuel Antonio Park or the Arenal Volcano.
Plane to Tortuguero
The quickest way to get to Tortuguero is to fly on one of Costa Rica's domestic airlines from San José, which takes around 60 minutes. I didn't do it, and I don't recommend it, because I would have missed the extraordinary boat trip. Below I'll explain how to get to Tortuguero by bus and boat.
Getting to Tortuguero from La Pavona and Moin
There are two places from where you can sail to Tortuguero: La Pavona and Moin. If you're coming from San José or La Fortuna, then La Pavona is the best option. For those arriving from the Caribbean coast, Moin is a better option, but the journey is longer (around three hours). There are public and private ferries to both places.
The boats leave La Pavona four times a day (7.30am, 11.00am, 1.00pm and 4.30pm). These times are not exact and can change frequently, so check with your hotel.
Bus to Tortuguero
The cheapest way to get to La Pavona from San José is by public bus from the Gran Terminal del Caribe (Calle Central Ave 15). You'll first have to take a bus to Cariari (about 2 hours) and then another bus to La Pavona (about 90 minutes). The boats at La Pavona usually wait for the bus to arrive.
If you leave from San José, there are buses to Cariari every day at 6.30am, 9am, 10.30am, 1pm, 3pm, 4.30pm, 6pm, 7pm and 8.30pm. However, to arrive in time for the boat it's better to leave on the first bus or the 9am bus. If you leave at this time, you'll be in Cariari by 11am in time to catch the bus to La Pavona, which leaves at 11.30am. When you arrive in La Pavona, buy your boat ticket at the restaurant next to the pier.
If you leave San José at 10.30 a.m. you may still be able to get to La Pavona in time to catch the boat, but if you go later there won't be a public boat. You may still be able to catch a private boat, but there are already a lot of them "ses".
Boat from La Pavona to Tortuguero
The most popular way of travelling to Tortuguero is on long, narrow boats with a capacity of around 20 passengers. The boats glide along the canals to reach Tortuguero and it's a way to start seeing the region even before entering the park.
The views of the rainforest are stunning and you can also see some wildlife, such as birds, caymans or monkeys.
From Tortuguero to San José
To return to San José, take the 9am public boat from Tortuguero and then continue on to Cariari on the 10.30am, 12.30pm, 1pm or 4pm bus.
Important notes for travelling to Tortuguero
- To get to Tortuguero you have to take two buses and a boat
- The total cost of the bus journey between San José and Tortuguero is around €5
- The boat ticket costs around 3000 colones 5€ (one way)
- The boat leaves every day at 7.30am, 11am, 1pm and 4.30pm from La Pavona to Tortuguero
- The boat leaves every day at 5.30am, 9am, 11am and 2.45pm from Tortuguero to La Pavona
- Luggage is likely to get wet from travelling splashes and rain
- There is no accommodation in La Pavona (see recommendations below)
- There is a car park and a restaurant in La Pavona
- The boat journey to Tortuguero from La Pavona takes about an hour
Where to stay in Tortuguero National Park
Although there aren't many hotels, there is something for every budget. I recommend the Mwamba Lodge where I stayed for two nights. The facilities were good, so was the food and there was wildlife visiting all the time - iguanas, colourful frogs, birds, etc.
Below are three other suggestions from my list of favourites, in case Mwamba Lodge isn't available.
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