When you visit Shakhrisabz (or Shahr-i Sabz), you're visiting a historic city in the south of Uzbekistan, in the Kashkadarya region, around 80 kilometres from Samarkand. The name Shakhrisabz means "Green City" in Persian, a name influenced by the lush vegetation and natural beauty.
It was an important political, economic, cultural and religious centre. For centuries it housed schools of Islamic thought, poets, artists and scholars, contributing to the intellectual development of the region. Due to its rich history and architecture, the historic centre of Shakhrisabz was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. It's one of the places you can include in an Uzbekistan itinerary.
This Uzbek town has a history stretching back thousands of years, having served as an important point in the Silk RoadBut it also came to prominence during the reign of Timur (known as Tamerlane) in the 14th century. Timur was born in Shakhrisabz and ordered the construction of palaces, mosques and other impressive structures (although little now remains of this glorious past).
The most famous building to visit in Shakhrisabz is the Ak-Saray Palace. Other notable monuments include Dorut Tilavat, Kok Gumbaz and Dorus-Saodat.
Today, Shakhrisabz continues to attract tourists from all over the world who come to admire the rich cultural heritage, explore the ancient ruins and historical monuments, and learn about the key role the city played in the history and culture of Uzbekistan and Central Asia.
What to do and visit in Shakhrisabz
Ak-Saray Palace
Kok Gumbaz
Kok Gumbaz, in Persian, means "Blue Dome", and refers to the architectural structure that we can see in Shakhrisabz. The building was constructed in the 15th century during the reign of Ulugbek, one of Timur's grandsons. The structure was originally planned as a mausoleum for Ulugbek, but ended up becoming a mausoleum for other members of the family. It was a place of veneration and pilgrimage for the local inhabitants and a real representation of the wealth and power of the Timurid dynasty.
The most prominent feature of the Kok Gumbaz is the large blue dome adorned with turquoise ceramic tiles - a masterpiece of period architecture. The building also has an elaborate façade with decorative tile panels and calligraphic inscriptions. It is included in the Shakhrisabz complex of historical monuments, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
Kok Gumbaz is an architectural marvel and a testimony to the city's rich cultural and historical heritage that you can visit in a day from Samarkand.
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Dorut Tilovat
Dorut Tilovat is another important historical complex to visit in Shakhrisabz. It is known as the place where religious ceremonies and rituals were performed. The name Dorut Tilovat means "Place of Recitation" in Persian, indicating that the complex was used to recite the Koran.
Like almost everything else you can see in Shakhrisabz, the complex was built during the reign of Timur in the 14th century and displays magnificent architecture characteristic of the Timurid era in Uzbekistan. It includes a mosque and a madrassa (religious school), as well as a spacious courtyard where religious ceremonies were held.
The madrassa served as a place where Islamic scholars taught and studied the Koran and Islamic law, contributing to the intellectual development of the region.
Dorut Tilovat is a historic complex that played an important role in the religious, cultural and educational life of Shakhrisabz and continues to be a place of significance and architectural beauty for locals and visitors alike.
Dorus-Saodat
Dorus-Saodat is a mausoleum complex and represents one of the most sacred sites in this region of Samarkand. It has enormous religious and cultural significance for the inhabitants of Shakhrisabz and for Muslims in general. The complex includes the mausoleums of members of Timur's family, including his wife (or one of his wives) Saray Mulk Khanum and sons Jahangir and Umar Sheikh. Timur had forty-three wives and concubines.
The buildings are adorned with ceramic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions, displaying a combination of Persian, Turkish and Islamic elements. Dorus-Saodat is a place of pilgrimage and veneration for Uzbeks, but also for outsiders who come to admire the architecture, learn about the history and sacred atmosphere.
Its architectural beauty and cultural significance make it one of the must-see places in Shakhrisabz.
The "real" city
One of the things that surprised and shocked me the most was the way in which the historic area of Shakhrisabz has been transformed almost into a theme park. As I mentioned above, there are several places worth seeing, but I invite you to go beyond that and get out of the "tourist park" and see the real lives of the people who live there.
There is a wall separating tourism from local housing (something done intentionally, and the same is true in Samarkand), but few go beyond the tourist attractions to find out how the people of Shakhrisabz live. It costs nothing and within a few minutes you'll find people greeting you, smiling and perhaps inviting you into their home.
The road from Samarkand
Photo: Jorge Duarte Estevão
I have to confess that I was disappointed with what I found in Shakhrisabz and, as I always say, the road is also the journey. And in this case, a journey from Samarkand, I challenge you to take advantage of the two-hour drive to enjoy the natural landscapes. As well as making the journey less tiring, the truth is that the natural scenery is fantastic.
There are several places where you can stop to take some good photos of the natural scenery. If you're travelling during spring, for example, then you'll see the snow-capped summits, which makes the views even more splendid.
If you're going on an organised tour, you're sure to stop along the way. If you hire a car (with or without a private driver), then you can also stop at these same places and viewpoints.
Along the way you can also buy local fruit or bread at some of the stalls along the road.
Extra information
Additional tip
At the entrance to the Shakhrisabz complex there are toilets for both genres. You have to pay around 3000 SOM, but make the most of it because then you won't find any more throughout the complex and sometimes the cafés are closed.
How long do I need to visit Shakhrisabz
It takes several hours to visit Shakhrisabz. The road has many bends and the surface has even more potholes. The (approximately) 90 kilometres take almost two hours to cover (each way). As you can see, the round trip alone takes four hours. To this must be added the time spent stopping for photos.
To see the city, and only the historic centre, allow around two to three hours. As your stomach will start to give out, you might want to eat something there (I don't blame you). In summary, if you leave Samarkand in the morning, around 8.30 or 9.00, to visit Shakhrisabz, then you should return to the base around 15.00 or 16.00. In other words, it's practically a whole day to see Shakhrisabz.
When to visit Shakhrisabz
Shakhrisabz has cold winters and hot summers and the heat can be unbearable. The winters, although cold, have some charm, as there are hardly any tourists and you may even be treated to a snowfall, which would make the town even more beautiful, but the state of the road there can be a big unknown.
The best months to visit Shakhrisabz are March, April, May and June, September and October, although you can visit the city at any time of the year.
Money in Shakhrisabz
In Uzbekistan it is now easy to find working ATM machines. It's best to take cash with you from Samarkand for shopping and to pay for entry to the palace, the other Shakhrisabz complexes and to go to the toilet. This is a society that still works with cash.
You don't need to change money, but it is essential to travel to Uzbekistan with two cards: one from the MasterCard network and one from the Visa network, as some ATM machines only accept one or the other network.
I use the Wise card and the Revolut card to avoid bank fees and commissions. I always travel with both.
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How to get to Shakhrisabz
Train
Samarkand is very well located and easy to travel to and from Tashkent, Bukhara or Khiva. Then, from there, you can easily find a connection to Shakhrisabz. However, there is only one train a day each way and that only allows you a couple of hours in Shakhrisabz. What's more, trains to Shakhrisabz are often sold out.
Save time (and money)
If you want to immerse yourself even more in the local culture, optimise your route and even save money, take part in experiences and guided tours in Shakhrisabz. Book the best tours and activities in advance. Skip the queues and get your entrances to monumentsYou'll have more time to enjoy your trip.
Hire a car
If you have your own car, it's much easier. Choose to hire a car with Discovercars. This site allows you to compare prices and, in many cases, you can cancel the rental free of charge up to 48 hours before departure.
Renting a car can be a challenge in Uzbekistan, so the best option (and the one I used) is to hire a car with a driver. That's why I advise you to ask around town or at your accommodation if they can take you to Shakhrisabz. In the Registan area there is no shortage of taxi drivers or chauffeurs selling their services.
The cost is variable and usually depends on the number of people you share the vehicle with. Agree with the driver on departure and return times and stops along the way, as well as waiting time in Shakhrisabz, including time for lunch if you wish. And make sure the price is per car or per person, so you don't get caught in a trap.
When you arrive, tell the driver to drop you off at the entrance and then pick you up at the other end a few hours later in the car park, so you don't have to walk all the way back.
Hotel in Shakhrisabz
I didn't stay in Shakhrisabz, but I can recommend places in Samarkand. I stayed and would stay again in a small house called Registan Centre. It's a basic place with the most welcoming family I've met in the country and they cook very well. They will also give you lots of tips on how to explore the city and they try very hard to speak English. Oh, and it' s just a short walk from the Registan. A recommendation without hesitation.
The second recommendation is for another guesthouse, called Samarkand Centre, where I also stayed one of the other nights as there was no vacancy at Registan Centre. At Samarkand Centre you'll be treated very well and you can even get a free lift to the airport or train station. This house is owned by the brother of the Registan Centre house. Both owners are exceptional.
Other places I recommend to sleep in Samarkand are the Jahongir Guest House, a classy house without exorbitant prices, and an even more modern place like the Higos House. On a more classic note, try the Platan Hotel, a small hotel where cleanliness stands out.
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