Mértola - what to visit in the (amazing) Museum Village

To visit Mértola is to enter one of the most beautiful villages in the Alentejo - I would even say in Portugal. I've been to Mértola countless times - not least because I was born about half an hour away.

However, I had never been there as a visitor, because I always felt at home. And feeling at home is where you feel comfortable, you're treated well, you feel good. 

Mértola and the surrounding area isn't "just" about the Guadiana River and the castle, it also has a beautiful historic centre, water sports, a beach and exquisite cuisine - both meat and fish. Mértola also has stories that span several centuries and civilisations. Along with Marvão and Monsaraz or Alcoutim is one of the most incredible villages in Portugal. 

From the fantastic Wolf's Leap to Pomarão, from Castle Between Roman and Arab remains, the Vila-Museu is irresistible.

The São Domingos Mines and the Pulo do Lobo waterfall may have put Mértola on the map of many visitors, but this Alentejo town hides other secrets. If the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans were already enchanted by it, how could I remain indifferent?

Brief lines on the history of Mértola

To visit Mértola is to immerse yourself in the past and feel the contact with great civilisations such as the Romans, Visigoths and Muslims. Nicknamed the Museum Town, it was one of the most important river ports in Phoenician and Carthaginian times.

Many peoples fought for control of the trade routes in the 2nd century BC on the last navigable stretch of the River Guadiana. 

The Alentejo town was transformed and enlarged by the Romans - which they called Myrtilis. Later, the Moors arrived, under the name of Martulahuntil it was finally made Portuguese by King Sancho II in 1238.

It was, in fact, one of the last Moorish strongholds in what is now national territory. Various traces of this multi-civilisational history are still visible in present-day Mértola.

What to do and visit in Mértola

Mértola Castle

You can get there by car, but it's much more interesting if you park your car at the entrance to the town and start walking up the steep streets until you reach Mértola Castle. Built in 1171, it has been classified as a national monument since 1943.

The landscape is superb - with the Guadiana and the bridge that crosses it as a backdrop. The view of the town and the rest of the landscape is even more emblematic from the Torre de Menagem. There you can also find a small museum.

From medieval times, it is based on Roman and Muslim fortifications and has undergone various changes throughout history. The castle's location was vital in the defence against potential invasions. Even before it became a refuge for Christian peoples, it belonged to Ibn Qasi, master of the Sufism.

Mértola Castle opening hours

16 September - 1 June | 9h00 - 12h30 | 14h00 - 17h30
1st July - 15th September | 9h30 - 12h30 | 14h00 - 18h00
Close: Every Monday, 1st January, 1st May and 25th December

Price
Castle: free
Keep: €2 (general public), €1 (over 65s and students). Admission is free for children under 12.

Historic centre of Mértola

In a tangle of cobbled streets that are hard to climb and even make you sweat on the hot days that plague the town, the historic centre is phenomenal for wandering around and appreciating details of the local culture. The whitewashed or white-painted houses help to cool down the locals.

We know we're in Portugal, but we feel like we're in an Arab town. Mértola's human presence dates back to the Neolithic period and since then many peoples have left their mark there.

Hunting monument

Hunting is an important sector in Mértola - both economically and gastronomically. There are numerous organised hunting reserves and many species are bred for this purpose.

Whether you agree or disagree with this activity, local culture is intrinsically linked to hunting. Its importance is such that Mértola has been given the title of National Hunting Capital. 

On arriving in the village - if you're coming from Castro Verde - you'll see the Monument to Hunting at the entrance to the bridge over the Guadiana, inaugurated in 2011. The monument represents animals such as deer, wild boar, wild rabbit, hare and partridge.

You can also cross the bridge and look down at the river from a height of several dozen metres - if you don't get vertigo.

Weaving workshop

One of the oldest traditional crafts in this region of the Alentejo is the weaving of woollen blankets. Taking advantage of the resources of the many sheep that are raised there, the weavers' co-operative keeps the tradition alive.

The space displays tools and textiles made in the municipality. Not only can you see how blankets and rugs are made, but you can also buy them.

All over the world it's important to preserve these traditions. I remember making similar visits to Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, Samarkand in Uzbekistan or Myanmar. In San Juan, Samarkand, Lake Inle or Mértola, women are the backbone of these co-operatives.

Mother Church of Mértola

Located just a few metres from the castle, the Igreja Matriz de Mértola, or Church of Our Lady of the Annunciation, has undergone changes - both physical and spiritual. Even before it was a church, it had been a mosque. The arched shapes of Muslim origin are still there, as is the prayer area signalling the direction of Mecca.

The mosque was built during the Muslim occupation of the Iberian Peninsula and was converted into a Christian church during the Reconquista. It retains Gothic, Manueline and Renaissance elements, as well as the aforementioned Islamic architecture.

From the doors to the walls, this church tells of the transformation and influence that the town has undergone over several centuries. The church has been classified as a national monument since 1910.

Mértola Mother Church opening hours

9h00 - 12h30 | 14h00 - 17h30 | Closed: Mondays

Price: Free entry

Clock Tower

Climbing the staircase unveils an incredible view of the River Guadiana. It is estimated that the Clock Tower was built at the end of the 16th century. More recently, another staircase was added that allows you to descend to the riverside. 

This improvement work, carried out in 1920, was financed by the Mason & Barry company, which operated the São Domingos mines between 1858 and 1965. It doesn't take long to see this building, but it is one of the most interesting in Mértola.

Mértola Museum

The Mértola Museum is not a single building, nor does it cover just one area. Justifying its nickname as a museum town, Mértola has set up a museum with 10 centres - nine in the town centre and one in São Domingos (Casa do Mineiro). 

Some in archaeological sites such as the Roman House, the Paleochristian Basilica, the Chapel of S. Sebastião and the Alcáçova. And others in buildings that have been restored to house them, such as the centres of Islamic Art, Sacred Art, the Keep, the Blacksmith's Forge, the Weaving Workshop and the Miner's House.

For example, at Forja do Ferreiro, in Rua Elias Garcia, you'll find tools used in agriculture, such as picks, scythes and hoes.

Hiking

I have a few hikes in mind in Mértola, but I haven't had time to do any in this part of the country yet. The main one is the Grande Rota do Guadiana, which runs for over 100 kilometres between Mértola and Vila Real de Santo António, in the Algarve. There are other walks - even shorter ones - that are worth considering, such as the Ore Route in São Domingos.

Holms of the Guadiana

I've spent several afternoons here, soaking my feet in the current of the Guadiana. It's a place where I find idyllic calm and where I always feel like spending hours without looking at the time.

The Azenhas do Guadiana are made up of two watermills and three old mills that, for centuries, took advantage of the currents to turn grain into flour. 

Now free of these functions, they have become a place of leisure. On a hot day, it's a great place to cool down the body... and the mind.

Mértola Islamic Festival (and other festivals)

Every two years in May, the Mértola Islamic Festival brings sublime performances of Mediterranean music and gastronomy to the Alentejo town.

The festival promotes the meeting of cultures, where cante alentejano gives way to the chords of the lute. Melancholic, lively or intimate rhythms spread - along with aromas - from the Guadiana quay to Mértola Castle. It's an invitation to intercultural dialogue and rediscovery.

However, the cultural agenda isn't all about the Islamic Festival, as every year this town in the Alentejo hosts other events such as the Túbera Festival (March), the River Fish Festival and the Honey, Cheese and Bread Fair (both in April), the town festivals (June) and the Hunting Fair (October).

Nautical activities

The Guadiana has been the soul of the Portuguese town for centuries. Formerly linked to fishing and trade, the great river of the south is a favourite spot for nautical activities when visiting Mértola. 

The riverbed between Canais and Azenhas do Guadiana is considered one of the most attractive for canoeing. The beautiful Guadiana landscape is bordered by rocky cliffs and you can even stop for a river bath if you feel like it.

There are also boats travelling between Mértola and Vila Real de Santo António in the Algarve.

Gastronomy

Two types of environment inspire Mértola's cuisine: hunting and the river. Fishing and hunting provide the ingredients for the town's and municipality's most famous dishes. But not only that, there are also cheeses and sausages, Mertolenga beef, gazpacho, tulips and mushrooms.

The cuisine associated with the Guadiana is rich in flavours, particularly the eel and lamprey. Don't miss the fried eel with tomato rice, lamprey rice or fish soups.

And don't forget the wine, as there are several wine products scattered around the municipality, such as the Bombeira do Guadiana, the Conde de Mértola or the Discórdia wines.

When it comes to sweetening your mouth, the back of bread dough (I've been eating them for decades and can't get enough), white poppiess (or whitewashed), gila back, torresmos coast, milk biscuits e butter biscuits.

The Alentejo gastronomy in Mértola doesn't stop there: it's varied and of high quality. You just have to choose where to eat in Mértola.

Guadiana Valley Natural Park 

The vast and beautiful Guadiana Valley Natural Park is the natural habitat of countless species of fauna and flora, most notably the endangered black stork. 

The park protects nature, the historical heritage of this Alentejo town and the dams and mills. The Guadiana valley protects a vital corridor for migratory birds and is also home to large birds of prey such as the Bonelli's eagle, the Egyptian vulture, the Iberian imperial eagle and the royal buzzard, as well as common storks.

The park, created in 1995, extends over 70,000 hectares in the municipalities of Mértola and Serpa and follows the course of the Guadiana River - between the Pulo do Lobo waterfall and the Vascão Stream (pictured), on the border between the Alentejo and the Algarve.

The Guadiana Valley Natural Park belongs to the National Network of Protected Areas and, along with the Castro Verde Special Protection Area, is one of the most important.

The landscape is especially appealing during winter and spring, when the green and colourful tones fill your eyes (and soul).

Iberian lynx

The Iberian lynx has been reintroduced to the region of Mértola and the Guadiana Valley Natural Park. This is one of the most endangered cats in the world, which only successful captive breeding has managed to save.

The reintroduction of the lynx in Portugal began in 2015. In March 2020, the Iberian Lynx Interpretation Centre and Observatory was created in São João dos Caldeireiros - around 15 km from the county seat.

The site provides visitors with information about the Iberian lynx and its habitat and alerts them to the need to protect it. The fact that man - through hunting - is the Iberian lynx's greatest direct competitor will not help to keep it free.

The animals are regularly released and monitored in the wild. It's a marvellous animal that - unfortunately - I haven't been able to see live yet, but I'm holding out hope. 

Destinations not to be missed around Mértola

Wolf's Leap

At around 16 metres high, this is one of the most dramatic places on the River Guadiana. Here the power of the riverbed is redoubled, but it is so reduced in width that, according to legend, a wolf could cross it in a single leap.

It's one of my favourite places in the whole of the Alentejo. I've been to Pulo do Lobo countless times, in all seasons. It's particularly impressive in winter, when the flow of the Guadiana takes on greater proportions.

The Pulo do Lobo waterfall is perhaps one of Mértola's greatest tourist attractions, located around 30 kilometres from Mértola. 

The river boils between very hard walls, the waters roar, swirl, crash, flow and gnaw, one millimetre per century, per millennium, a nothingness in eternity.

José Saramago, Journey to Portugal

Pulo do Lobo is synonymous with nature, geology, landscape, biodiversity and the site of legends and smuggling stories. A real (and obligatory) treat for anyone visiting Mértola.

How to get to Pulo do Lobo

Pulo do Lobo can be reached from Serpa or Mértola.

From Mértola

To get to Pulo do Lobo from Mértola, you can head towards Serpa (around 40 kilometres), or take the IC27 towards Castro Verde. Part of the route is on a dirt track in reasonable condition. 

See the directions on Google Maps.

From Serpa

Access to Pulo do Lobo via Serpa is on the road linking Serpa to Mina de São Domingos, at the crossroads to Vale do Poço. Crossing this town, you can follow the signs along the tarmac road to the crossroads that indicate Pulo do Lobo 2 km away (on the left). Part of the route is on a dirt track. 

See the directions on Google Maps.

Mina de São Domingos River Beach

Alentejo rhymes with hellish summer heat and the river beach at Mina de São Domingos (or Praia da Tapada Grande) is an excellent place to cool off and relax. Originally built to supply the town and the mining works, it has now taken on recreational functions.

The beach is accessible even for people with reduced mobility and has parking spaces, shade and a restaurant. The bathing season at the Mina de São Domingos river beach runs from 1 June to 15 September. It has been awarded the Blue Flag since 2012.

São Domingos Mine

The São Domingos Mine is a special place in Mértola. At the same time historic, it is also tragic because of the apocalyptic scenario that mining left behind.

Everything was running on wheels (or rails) until the ore veins were no longer economically attractive. Everything was abandoned, in an example of terrible environmental management. However, the Mina de São Domingos gives us an incredible lesson in life, as well as being a very photogenic place.

I've written this article about the São Domingos Mine, with all the details for this visit to a place that deserves a day in itself.

Pomarão

After being extracted from the São Domingos Mine, the ore was transported in wagons to the port of Pomarão, where it was taken by boat to various countries. Today Pomarão, on the border with Spain, is one of the most visited places, where dozens of sailing boats dock after travelling up the Guadiana.

Chapel of Our Lady of Aracelis

The "altar of heaven" is how the name Aracelis can be interpreted. The Chapel of Our Lady of Aracelis dates back to the 16th century. The landscape that surrounds it is phenomenal and doesn't need to be dated, it just needs to be observed.

A place of worship since ancient times, the Hermitage of Our Lady of Aracelis is built on an isolated elevation in the middle of the vast plain (276 metres). From the hermitage you'll have a magnificent panoramic view, especially at sunset.

According to legend, six other hermitages could be seen from here in the Alentejo and Algarve: Remédios in Alcaria, Castro da Cola in Ourique, Guadalupe (Serpa), Castelo (Aljustrel), Saúde (Martim Longo) and Piedade (Loulé).

The hermitage is located on the border between the municipalities of Castro Verde and Mértola. In fact, the church is said to be in the municipality of Castro Verde and the churchyard in the municipality of Mértola. This is also a good place to relax, go for a walk or watch birds such as cranes or bustards. Whenever I can, I go there purely to contemplate nature.

Other places to see in Mértola

• Roman Centre
• Sacred Art Centre
• Islamic Museum
• Palaeochristian Basilica
• Convent of Mértola
• Water Mills
• Moinho do Alferes (Ribeira do Vascão)

Map of places to visit in Mértola