Together with Bukhara and Khiva, Samarkand forms a kind of magic triangle in Uzbekistan. Samarkand is the most touristy of the three cities, but it is still, in my opinion, perhaps the most attractive of the three. There is so much to see and do in Samarkand, one of the ancient cities on the Silk Road and considered one of the pearls of the Eastern Muslim world.
One of the main reasons to visit Samarkand is to admire the magnificent Islamic architecture of the mosques and mausoleums and to enjoy sites that have been protected on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2001.
In the 14th century, Samarkand became the capital of the empire of Timur the Great. Most of the Islamic monuments in the city still date from this period. It is allegedly one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, with archaeological evidence that it was inhabited as early as Palaeolithic times. The city was conquered several times, including by Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan.
Samarkand is a great place to experience contemporary Uzbek culture and delicious cuisine. As touristy as the city can be, most of the historical monuments attract more Uzbek pilgrims than foreigners.
I've visited Samarkand more than once. I've spent many days there and I can't get enough of the atmosphere, the city and the majestic architecture. In 2019, when I was travelling through Silk RoadFor the first time, Samarkand had left a slight impression, but after revisiting it, I ended up surrendering. It's sublime.
What to do and visit in Samarkand
The main tourist attractions are scattered throughout the city. Much of it has been restored, but there is plenty to see and do in Samarkand. From the Registan, the huge square where most visitors flock, to the Shah-i-Zinda Complex.
But the Registan is only the beginning of all the things to do in Samarkand. There are equally impressive mausoleums, shrines and mosques - most dating back to the time of Timur the Great. However, the city is not limited to Muslim architecture. As Samarkand was one of the vital points on the Silk Road, it is essential to visit a factory that is still in operation.
Even without the (still) genuine charisma of Khiva, when you visit Samarkand you'll be amazed by the beauty and grandeur of the sights. Here's a list of the must-sees in Samarkand and a little history of the incredible city.
Registan Square
It's hard not to be impressed by Registan Square, with its stupendous madrassas (Islamic schools). The blue domes, the giant minarets, the blue patterns of the mosaics and tiles.
It's forbidden to draw up a list of what to see and do in Samarkand and not include the Registan. The square is beautiful by day and even more so when evening approaches and the lights come on. The square has served in the past as a stage for royal proclamations, public speeches and special events - and also for public executions.
Registan Square is made up of three huge madrassas positioned to create a square-shaped open space. The madrassas represent different Islamic schools.
The best time to visit the Registan is at sunrise and especially at the end of the day, when the sun goes down and the madrassas start to light up.
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Bibi-Khanym Mosque
The Bibi-Khanum Mosque is one of the most impressive structures to visit in Samarkand. It was built in the 15th century by Amir Timur, also known as Tamerlane, who was famous for his military conquests and for promoting art and architecture. The mosque was built in honour of Timur's favourite wife, Bibi-Khanym. Timur was a powerful and visionary military leader who ruled over a vast area of Central Asia. This mosque was erected as a demonstration of his wealth, power and religious devotion.
Considered a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, the Bibi-Khanym Mosque is known for its architectural grandeur and beauty and features a façade decorated with turquoise ceramic tiles. It has suffered significant damage over the centuries due to earthquakes, especially in 1936, which damaged the main dome, the minarets and the naves. However, restoration and conservation efforts have been made to preserve it. It now stands as an important historical and tourist landmark, testament to the rich history of Central Asia and the Silk Road.
When it was built, the Bibi-Khanym Mosque was one of the largest and most magnificent mosques in the Islamic world. The central dome was over 40 metres high, making it one of the tallest structures in Samarkand at the time. It was decorated with precious materials such as marble, jade and glazed ceramic tiles, while the façade was elaborately decorated with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy glorifying Allah.
When you visit Samarkand you'll hear various stories, one of which is associated with the construction of this mosque. Supposedly, the architect who was leading the construction of the mosque fell madly in love with the beautiful queen and delayed the completion of the work in every possible way. When the queen asked the architect to speed up construction, the architect said he would only do it on one condition: if she allowed him to kiss her.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque opening hours
Every day from 9am to 8pm
Ulugbek Observatory
The Ulugbek Observatory, built by Sultan Sage Ulugbek, grandson of Amir Timur, is another of the must-see places in Samarkand. It represents an important historical landmark and a testimony to the advanced scientific knowledge in Central Asia during the 15th century. Ulugbek was known not only as a just ruler, but also as a scholar dedicated to astronomy, maths and other sciences. Built on Kuhak Hill on the outskirts of Samarkand, it featured a large marble sextant, an impressive innovation for the time.
The sextant had a radius of around 40 metres and was used to measure the angles of celestial bodies. The astronomical records were remarkably accurate and advanced. The astronomical calculations were published long after his death, but they had a significant impact on the scientific world. Ulugbek's work was rediscovered and valorised during the European Renaissance, influencing the development of modern astronomy.
Today, the Ulugbek Observatory in Samarkand is a place of historical and scientific interest, recognising Ulugbek's remarkable contributions to human understanding of the cosmos. I recommend a visit towards the end of the day, when the views are at their most beautiful at sunset.
Ulugbek Observatory opening hours
Every day from 8am to 8pm
Memorial to Mirzo Ulugbek
The Mirzo Ulugbek Memorial is located in Samarkand, close to the place where Ulugbek is believed to have been born. There you will also find the museum, where objects related to his life, his scientific knowledge and his impact on the history of the region are on display. As well as preserving his memory, the museum serves as an educational centre about Ulugbek's historical importance and his contributions to science and culture.
Mirzo Ulugbek Museum opening hours
Every day from 9am to 7pm
Siyob Bazaar (Samarkand market)
The Siyob Bazaar, although not one of the most fantastic I've been to, especially after visiting Istanbul and Konya in Turkey. However, it is an interesting place to spend an hour.
In this market, located just a few minutes from the Registan and the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, you'll find all kinds of fresh produce, from fruit (good figs, grapes, pomegranates or blackberries), vegetables, nuts, to sweets, traditional bread and household utensils. If you like to get an insight into local life, the Siyob Bazaar is one of the best things to see and do in Samarkand.
I recommend buying fruit at this market and also having lunch at the restaurant with a terrace. The meals are so economical that sometimes I thought they had made a mistake in my favour. Be sure to try the samsas fresh from the oven.
Siyob Bazaar opening hours
Every day from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m. | Closed: Mondays
Gur-Emir's Mausoleum
The Gur-Amir Mausoleum remains a sacred place for the Uzbek people and was an architectural prototype for other works such as the Taj Mahal in India.
Guri Amir is the mausoleum of the Asian conqueror Amir Timur (known as Tamerlane). Amir Timur was a multifaceted ruler who left his mark on Uzbekistan and Central Asia. This is where Timur and many of his family are buried.
The exterior decoration of the mausoleum consists of colourful blue tiles arranged in geometric ornaments. The complex courtyard was decorated with a single decorative wall with four minarets located in the corners.
Gur-Amir Mausoleum opening hours
Every day from 9am to 7pm
Shah-i-Zinda Complex
You can't visit Samarkand without seeing the Shah-i-Zinda Complex. The complex consists of more than twenty buildings, including temples and mausoleums, most of which were built between the 11th and 19th centuries.
The name Shah-i-Zinda can be translated as the tomb of the Living King, in an allusion to Kusam ibn-Abbas (Muhammad's cousin), supposedly the man who brought Islam to Uzbekistan - and who is buried there. It is said that he was beheaded for being a believer, but he didn't die. Instead, he went into a deep hole where he still lives now. Many people travelled there to pray in the area where he was buried.
Religions and legends aside, this is a very beautiful site in architectural terms and all the tile work - untouched by centuries of erosion - is magnificent. The tiles vary in each mausoleum, making it one of Samarkand's main points of interest.
Shah-i-Zinda is a sacred place and, on the day I was there, pilgrims were coming and going. Along with the Registan, the Shah-i-Zinda complex is one of the must-see places in Samarkand. It's perfect for photography and even has a privileged backdrop to other parts of the city.
Shah-i-Zinda Complex opening hours
Every day from 7am to 10pm
Tiles
Uzbekistan is much prouder of its Islamic legacy than it was of the harsh years inside the Soviet Union. Street names have changed, Lenin's statue has been replaced by Timur or by poets and writers.
Despite this, there is still some Soviet heritage in Samarkand, as well as in Tashkent, in the form of buildings or exterior tile patterns.
Silk Factory
Samarkand was an important and historic city on the Silk Road, so I didn't want to leave the city without learning more about this important chapter in the city's past. It is the past that continues to determine the present, as the manufacture of silk carpets is still an active and profitable business.
At the silk factory I visited, the owner is over 90 years old, and it was his daughter who made the silk. tour to show me how the whole process worked. I even learnt to tell the difference between real and imitation silk.
Around two dozen women weave rugs at the factory every day for clients from all over the world - including famous people like Hillary Clinton. Some of the rugs made there take up to a year to complete, as the patterns are tailor-made for clients with deep pockets.
Several of the carpets are framed on the walls of the factory. The detail is incredible, as are the products used to create the colours: flowers, roots and fruit skins.
Even if you have no interest in shopping, of the things to do and see in Samarkand, a visit to the Samarkand Silk Factory is my top recommendation. The only way to get a sense of the demanding work carried out by these Uzbek women is to see them in person.
Shakhrisabz
Shakhrisabz is a historic city located in southern Uzbekistan, approximately 80 kilometres from Samarkand. The name "Shakhrisabz" means "Green City" in Persian, reflecting the natural and architectural beauty of the region. Shakhrisabz was founded as a fortified city by the Persian satraps in ancient times and later became an important city on the Silk Road.
The city gained great importance during the reign of Amir Timur, also known as Tamerlane, the powerful leader of the 14th century. The ruler invested significantly in construction projects in the city, including palaces, mosques and other structures. Because of its rich history and architecture, the historic centre of Shakhrisabz was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. You can visit Shakhrisabz from Samarkand.
Urgut Bazaar
The Urgut Bazaar is a traditional market located in the town of Urgut, around 40 kilometres from Samarkand. This bazaar is one of the region's most emblematic attractions and has a history dating back centuries. The Urgut Bazaar is an integral part of the region's culture and daily life and has long been a vital centre of trade and cultural exchange, where local traders and travellers gather to exchange products and goods.
The bazaar is known for its wide variety of products, ranging from fresh and dried foods to clothes, fabrics, handicrafts, ceramics, carpets, musical instruments and much more. Visitors can find a wide range of traditional Uzbek items and local handicrafts. The market is known for its vibrant and lively atmosphere, fervent negotiations and a mixture of smells, sounds and tones.
The Urgut Bazaar is much more than just a market, it's also a cultural icon and a fascinating experience that offers an authentic insight into Uzbek life and culture.
Tip: The best days to visit the Urgut Bazaar are Wednesdays and Sundays.
Seven Lakes (Tajikistan)
While you're visiting Samarkand, if you have more time, I (strongly) advise you to visit the Seven Lakes in neighbouring Tajikistan. The Seven Lakes are a set of mountain lakes located in the Fann Mountains in north-west Tajikistan, close to the border with Uzbekistan. These lakes are known for their stunning natural beauty, crystal clear waters and remote location.
The lakes were formed by glacial activity in the Fann Mountains over thousands of years. Each lake has its own origin and unique characteristics, varying in size, depth and water colour.
Other places to see in and around Samarkand
- Rukhabad Mausoleum
- Khovrenko Wine Factory
- Mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari
- Hazrat-Khizr Mosque
Map of places to visit in Samarkand
Extra information
How much time do I need to visit Samarkand
Samarkand is Uzbekistan's second largest city, but most of the attractions are concentrated in one area. If you only want to see the Registan and one other building from the outside, then one day will do. However, this is a city that requires at least two or three days to absorb its day and night atmosphere. Furthermore, if you want to visit Urgut, Shakhrisabz, then you'll need more time.
So set aside two or three days for an Uzbekistan itinerary to explore everything there is to see and do in Samarkand.
Save time (and money)
If you want to immerse yourself even more in the local culture, optimise your trip and even save money, take part in experiences and guided tours in Samarkand. Book the best tours and activities in advance. Skip the queues and get your entrances to monumentsYou'll have more time to enjoy your trip.
When to visit Samarkand
Samarkand has cold winters and very hot summers. Of all the periods, I would immediately rule out summer. Temperatures hover around 35 degrees and often exceed 40 degrees in July and August. The heat is really unbearable and you won't be able to walk outside for much of the day.
Winters, although cold, have a certain charm, as there are hardly any tourists and you may even be treated to a snowfall, which would make the city even more beautiful.
The best months to visit Samarkand are March, April, May and June, September and October, although you can visit the city at any time of the year.
Visas for Uzbekistan and Samarkand
Since 2019, many citizens (and all visitors from European Union member countries) have been able to visit Uzbekistan without a visa for a period of 30 days. However, registration is required at all hotels and private homes. Registration is carried out by the accommodation, but keep hold of the papers given to you by your hosts, as these documents may be required when you leave the country.
Money in Samarkand
The official currency of Uzbekistan is the Uzbek Som (UZS) and there are 1, 3, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 5000 and 10000 Som banknotes in circulation. Coins of various denominations between 1 and 100 Som are also in use.
In Uzbekistan it's now easy to find working ATM machines. In Samarkand, there are a few in the Registan area, but if these fail it's best to try the larger hotels. You won't be able to pay by card in most places, as it's still a cash-based society. It's essential to always have cash on you.
You don't need to change money, but it is essential to travel to Uzbekistan with two cards: one from the MasterCard network and one from the Visa network, as some ATM machines only accept one or the other network.
I use the Wise card and the Revolut card to avoid bank fees and commissions. I always travel with both.
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Transport in Samarkand - and how to get there
Samarkand is very well located and it's easy to travel to and from Tashkent, Bukhara or Khiva.
Train
The train is the most comfortable way of travelling to and from Samarkand and that's how I got to the city from Bukhara. With the Afrosiyob - a high-speed train - it takes less than two hours to get to Bukhara and around 2.5 hours to get to Tashkent.
However, there are slightly slower connections during the day. If you visit Uzbekistan in late spring or the summer months, book your tickets in advance, as seats often sell out. Tickets can be bought online on the official website and it's a good idea to print out the travel document.
Bus
If you haven't managed to buy train tickets, you always have the option of a shared taxi (marshrutka). From Samarkand, there are vehicles travelling regularly to Bukhara, Tashkent and also to Penjikent, just across the border in Tajikistan.
The border between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan is currently open to foreigners and Samarkand is a great place to cross, as the distance is short.
Where to stay in Samarkand
Samarkand has no shortage of hotels, private houses and hostels to sleep in. However, when I return to the city I'm going to stay again in a small house called Registan Centre.
It's a basic place with the most welcoming family I've met in the country and they cook very well. What's more, they'll give you lots of tips for exploring the city and they try very hard to speak English. Oh, and it's just a short walk from the Registan. A recommendation without hesitation.
The second recommendation is for another guesthouse, called Samarkand Centre, where I also stayed one of the other nights as there was no vacancy at Registan Centre. At Samarkand Centre you'll be treated very well and you can even get a free lift to the airport or train station. This house is owned by the brother of the Registan Centre house. Both owners are exceptional.
Other places I recommend to sleep in Samarkand are the Jahongir Guest House, a classy house without exorbitant prices, and an even more modern place like the Higos House. On a more classic note, try the Platan Hotel, a small hotel where cleanliness stands out.
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