I have watched the sunrise in several countries, all around the world. Some remain in memory, like waking up to the sound of the jungle in Tikal, in Guatemala, seeing the sun rise over the majestic natural shape of Uluru, in the desert of Australia, in the Viñales Valley, in Cuba, or in Borobudur, in Indonesia, just to name a few examples. However, the sunrise in Bagan is perfect.
In Bagan, Myanmar, the shapes of two thousand temples emerge from the darkness and take on a three-dimensional form, while hot air balloons begin their upward movement. The yawns of early morning awakening give way to awe at the almost indescribable beauty that unites nature's creation with man's architectural inspiration.
Sunrise in Bagan is truly sublime. The temples stretch to the horizon beyond the eye, the morning mist slowly clears over the plains, the sky begins to burn and the hot air balloons float silently.
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The day is for sightseeing, the sunrise for photography in Bagan
I strolled around Bagan during the day, but without taking any photos. The light is terrible, the shadows mischaracterise the temples and to publish photos (taken in the middle of the day) of this wonder of Myanmar would almost be a betrayal of the beauty of the place.
The day is meant for strolling and observing the religious buildings. However, to admire and photograph, Bagan has two perfect moments: at sunrise and sunset, especially at dawn.
The faint light that illuminates Bagan's Buddhist temples and the reflection of the sun's weak rays on the plains at dawn or dusk transforms even the most banal photo into an image worthy of publication.
I travel in high season and Bagan has more tourists than usual, although it's not difficult to escape the small crowds. The space in Bagan is so vast that, without any difficulty, I find one, two, three and more temples where I am the only visitor.
I observe the inscriptions on various buildings, discover a small Buddha and am enchanted by the size of this archaeological site, which will soon be on UNESCO's list of protected heritage sites with honour and merit.
History and breakfast in Portuguese
Bagan, in the center of Burma, is one of the largest archaeological sites in the world and rivals Machu Picchu, in Peru, or Angkor Wat, in Cambodia. With one difference: far fewer tourists. It is essential to visit Bagan on a trip to Myanmar.
Bagan is an ancient city in the centre of Myanmar, southwest of Mandalay. Situated on the plains on the banks of the Ayeyarwady (or Irrawaddy) River, Bagan is renowned for its important archaeological site, made up of more than 2,000 Buddhist monuments. The main temples in Old Bagan include the ornate Temple of Ananda and the Temple of Dhammayangyi.
Not far from there, in Mrauk U - the former capital of the Arakan empire - Portuguese traders faced off against the princes of Bengal and the Mughals. Mrauk U was an important trading city for Portuguese, Dutch, Indian and Persian merchants in the 17th century.
In Mrauk U, as in Bagan, there are a large number of pagodas, temples and religious buildings. Mrauk U is still overlooked by tourists and I intend to explore it on my next visit to Myanmar.
As if by fate, after my first sunrise in Bagan, I return to the Sky View Hotel to have a vast and tasty breakfast, and I hear some words in Portuguese. Like me, Pedro and Samantha are in Myanmar for the first time.
The conversation lingers, breakfast spreads out and we agree to meet for sunrise the next day and then head off to Mount Popa and Salay - an extra trip that I'll let you know about.
For me, it's always memorable to meet other Portuguese souls travelling around the world, but meeting Pedro and Samantha was special and, months later, we would meet up for a remarkable trip to the paradise of Raja Ampat in Indonesia.
Frustrated dawn or reconnaissance mission?
The taxi was arranged the night before for 5.15am and a few minutes later we arrived at the temples - not without first picking up Robin, another Portuguese travelling with Pedro and Samantha, but staying at another hotel.
We arrived at the temples in the middle of the night. However, having made the mistake of arriving at the temples at 6am the night before, I didn't even hesitate to wake up. On my first attempt, the temple I had chosen was packed with people and there was no room to safely manoeuvre all the photographic equipment I was carrying.
This time there's time and space to choose the best location. Almost in absolute silence, at the top of the temple, I see some yawns (mainly Pedro's) and the constant arrival of more people. Some stay on the upper level, others lower down. I choose level two because it seems to me to have a better panoramic view and to be safer.
It would later prove to have been the right choice, as I could photograph the balloons gaining altitude on my left and the sun rising between two imposing Bagan temples on my right. While on the other side of the planet, at Stonehenge, on a grey day, thousands jostled to see the sun rise on the winter solstice, in Bagan, the sunrise was superb.
He had taken advantage of the previous day's dawn to study the best location, while others ran over. In the end, what seemed to be an unsuccessful first attempt to photograph Bagan turned out to be a useful reconnaissance mission.
I studied the angle, the light and a location that wouldn't cause security problems and where my view wouldn't be blocked by the late arrival of other early risers.
Despite all this preparation, I am interrupted (and forced to intervene) when an Israeli tourist disrespects the traditions, customs and tranquillity of that Bagan morning. According to the rules, it is strictly forbidden to smoke and to enter the temples wearing shoes (or socks). This young tourist managed to break these rules.
Finally, after being cordially reprimanded, I ended up watching the sunrise in silence, to the delight of other visitors who thanked me for my intervention.
Finally, after almost an hour of waiting, the night recedes, the cold diminishes, the fog clears and my eyes now shine as brightly as the rays of sunlight that illuminate them.
My soul is radiant and my memory - and memory card - will forever record this image of the sunrise in Bagan - undoubtedly the most beautiful sunrise in the world. Even Pedro, between yawns, confided in me - "It's hard to get up early, but it's really worth it". I absolutely agree.
Note: I intentionally use both the names Burma and Myanmar to refer to this Asian country. Myanmar is the country's official name, but the name was introduced unilaterally - without consulting the Burmese people - by the military dictatorship, and is still rejected by a large part of the population.
Extra information
How to visit Bagan
Bicycle or e-bike - my recommendation
Bagan's temple area is huge and impossible to walk around, but as it's a flat area it's perfect for cycling. You can pedal or hire an electric bike when you're tired.
I recommend that you hire an electric scooter, as the cost is low and the range is enormous. I paid 10,000 kyat (6€) for a day's hire. Most hotels rent scooters, including the Sky View Hotel, where I stayed. Don't be careless (like me) and make sure you wear a helmet, even though the maximum speed is very low.
Hot air balloon flights in Bagan - budget permitting
(The people who did it say that the best way to see the temples is from inside a hot air balloon basket. Unfortunately, my budget didn't allow for this luxury and the highest I went was to the top of some temples. The flight, which lasts around 45 minutes, departs at dawn, with panoramic views of the river, mountains and temples.
But bear in mind that hot air balloon flights in Bagan only take place for about six months a year, usually between October and March or April. Prices start at 310 dollars (270€).
Hot air balloon companies in Bagan:
Wagon - to the sound of hooves
You can explore at a more leisurely pace if you hire a horse cart. Some of the "drivers" speak English and you can use this to your advantage by having a guide while you visit the temples. Negotiate the price before putting the brakes on the horses.
Boat trip on the river - to the rhythm of the Irrawaddy
There are several companies that run sunset boat trips in Bagan. You can find prices for this trip on the Irrawaddy River, from 5000 kyat (3€).
The journeys take between one and two hours, leaving just before 17.00. During my stay in Myanmar, I didn't have time to evaluate any of these boat trips.
Mount Popa - a journey beyond Bagan
The minimum time needed to see Bagan, in my opinion, is two days, three nights. If you can, stay longer and make the most of it. side trip to Mount Popa - the sacred mountain - and to Salay, an active religious centre dating back to the 12th century, where you can see ornate temples built only from wood and meet monks going about their daily lives.
Be prepared to negotiate with a taxi driver, as the price of the journey can vary greatly. It should cost you around 30€ or 40€ to hire a taxi driver for the round trip for the whole day.
Money
There are several machines for withdrawing money in Bagan, including at the Sky View Hotel, the hotel where I stayed, but it's convenient to have cash on you, as in Myanmar society moves with local cash (kyat).
Tipping is not widespread, but it's always useful to have 100 or 200 kyat notes for donations at some temples. And if you arrive by boat from Mandalay, you'll need cash to buy your ticket to Bagan.
Access ticket to Bagan
Entry to Bagan is valid for five days from the moment you buy the ticket. The cost is 25,000 kyat (16€).
Clothing
Shoes and socks must be removed before entering the temples and it is almost guaranteed that you will be refused entry to the temples if you don't have suitable clothing covering your knees and shoulders. Smoking and drinking alcohol are also forbidden in temples.
Security
The stairs to some of Bagan's temples are quite steep, with no handrails, and can be an obstacle even for the most agile visitors. There have been fatalities from falls from Bagan's temples. Only go up if you're sure you'll be able to get down.
What to take to Bagan
Tap water is not drinkable, so you should buy water bottles. Or, do as I do and take your own reusable bottle and avoid the unnecessary use of plastic. In some hotels there are fountains where you can fill your container.
This helps the environment and your pocket. Don't forget sunscreen and a hat, as the sun and heat in Bagan during the day are unrelenting. At night, between November and February, the nights can be chilly.
If you decide to wake up early for the sunrise or stay up to watch the sunset at Bagan's temples, make sure you take a torch (or use the torch on your mobile phone). This light will be vital for getting up and down safely, especially if, like me, you're staying late to photograph the post-sunset or pre-sunset.
Where to watch the sunrise in Bagan?
The answer to this question was fairly easy until the end of 2017, but the Myanmar government decided to start closing access to most of the temples from which you could watch this spectacle of nature. The justification is, according to the Burmese government, to protect the fragile temples.
There is speculation surrounding this decision, with some claiming that the intention is to turn Bagan into a luxury tourism area and thus leave out the backpackers. The other stream of speculation is that the authorities will open and close several temples at random to distribute tourists.
However, the main reason behind this decision may be related to Bagan's application to UNESCO. The Burmese government tried to ban climbing the temples in 2016, but eventually backed down after strong pressure from local tour operators.
Some, however, ended up being closed after the 2016 earthquake, in which 389 pagodas and temples in Bagan suffered structural damage, such as the temples of Thagyarhit, Thagyarbone, Pyathada and Thitsarwady. Much of this restoration has now been completed.
So the answer to the question "where to watch the sunrise and sunset in Bagan" can only be answered on the spot. Do as I did and grab a map of Bagan and ask the hotel, the guides and the taxi drivers to show you which places are open.
If none of the temples are open to the public, there are artificial sites created to watch the sun rise and set in Bagan, although in my opinion these should only be used as a last resort, as they are not high enough to have a panoramic view of the temples.
Temples closed to the public
Other works are planned to help Bagan secure the UNESCO label, such as strengthening security, improving access roads and removing all the billboards that block views of the pagodas.
Some of the closed temples include: Buledi (or Bhuleti), Law Ka Ou Shaung, Lay Myet Hna Pagoda, Meenyeingon Phaya, Myauk Guni Phaya, Shwe Nan Yin Taw, Sulamani Pahto.
This information can change at any time, so it's best to check when you arrive in Bagan or send an email to the hotel where you're staying and ask for the most up-to-date information.
When to visit Bagan
In Bagan, the heat is a constant. The best time to visit is between November and February, when temperatures are around 30°C. Between March and May, temperatures can reach over 40°C, so visiting at this time is not recommended. The rainy season is between June and October.
Visa for Burma / Myanmar
Unlike before, you can apply for a Burma visa online and it should be ready within three working days. The visa is valid for three months and you can stay in the country for a maximum of 28 days. The cost of a Myanmar visa is 50 dollars (2018).
Security in Myanmar
Myanmar is a safe country and the people are very friendly. See up-to-date information on security in Myanmar. In Mandalay, the main danger is noise and pollution, as the traffic is chaotic. And negotiating with taxi drivers in Mandalay is almost impossible.
How to get to Bagan
There are not many direct flights to Myanmar. You can fly to Burma with Emirates for around 700€. Another option is to fly to Bangkok and from there take a low-cost flight to Yangon or Mandalay.
Note that flying to Yangon is much cheaper than flying to Mandalay. Simulate for both of Myanmar's main cities and also see the cost of internal flights between Yangon and Bagan. Use this site to compare the various options and prices.
I flew from London with Qatar Airways and I recommend this route, as the journey is evenly spread, with a stop in Doha, in Qatar. From London there are also cheaper solutions with Air China (500€), although they involve much longer flights.
There are then buses, trains and internal flights to Bagan. I travelled by boat from Mandalay to Bagan, a relaxing and beautiful trip.
Train
From Yangon there is a train that leaves daily at 4pm and arrives in Bagan at 9.30am the next day. It's a long journey and, according to reports, there are many bumps due to the poor quality of Myanmar's railway lines.
From Mandalay, there is a daily train departing at 7.20 and arriving in Bagan at 18.45. You can check other connections and prices on the website The Man in Seat 61.
Bus
The bus leaves Yangon at 6pm and arrives in Bagan at 4am the next day. Don't forget to take a jacket or jumper with you, as the drivers usually switch on the air conditioning in very low temperatures. From Yangon to Bagan, there are bus departures at 8am, 7pm and 8pm. The journey takes around nine hours.
From Mandalay to Bagan, transport is by minibus, departing at 8am, 10am, 12pm and 5pm. The journey takes around six hours.
If you're travelling from Inle Lake, there are no direct trains and you'll need to make some changes. There are buses that run from Inle Lake to Bagan, departing at 8.30am, 7.00pm, 7.30pm and 8.00pm. The journey takes around nine hours. You can check other connections and prices on this site.
Hotel in Bagan
If you need a recommendation for accommodation in Bagan, don't hesitate and choose the Sky View Hotel.
I stayed at the Sky View Hotel and I recommend it. Breakfast (included) at the hotel is good and served on the terrace with a great view at sunrise. The main meals are also good and at an acceptable price.
The rooms are comfortable, but choose a room with a view, as there are rooms on floor -1 where the only view you'll have is a wall. They'll cost you a bit more, but believe me, it's money well spent.
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Yes, one of the best ways to see Bagan and appreciate it is from the top of a hot air balloon. What a great experience!