Itinerary for a fantastic week in Montenegro

I've wanted to visit Montenegro for a long time because I've been told it's the most beautiful country in the Balkans. Although it's very small, the country has so much to offer that a week's holiday in Montenegro might not seem like much. From beach areas on the Adriatic coast to monuments and monasteries - with the Ostrog Monastery at the forefront.

If you recognise beauty in Dubrovnik, Croatia, try visiting Kotor and decide which of the two deserves the prize for most beautiful. Don't forget incredible parks such as Durmitor or Biogradska Gora and, of course, one of the most beautiful areas in Montenegro - Lake Skadar.

This one-week itinerary in Montenegro may be rushed, but the next time I'm in this Balkan country I'm going to take my time. Montenegro is a great country to explore slowly, enjoy the lush landscape of coastline, lakes and mountains and savour all the delights of traditional food.

See also below for the hotels I recommend throughout the Montenegro itinerary.

A week in Montenegro - what to see

Day 1: Tivat

I started my tour of Montenegro in Tivat, as it was the closest place to an airport to pick up the hire car. Tivat is a coastal town in Montenegro, located on the Bay of Kotor, and well worth a short trip. The focus is on Porto Montenegro, the marina where several luxury yachts are parked.

If you have the time (and a lot of money) you can buy one, as there is a place where yachts are displayed for sale, with all the details, from power to top speed. It's not an extraordinary place, but it fits into the itinerary of a week in Montenegro. In Tivat, you can also find a small maritime museum and a lighthouse.

Days 2 and 3: Kotor and Perast

I've written about Kotor before and even made a comparison between Kotor and Dubrovnik. Basically, I can tell you that Kotor - and by extension Perast - have to be on your itinerary for a week in Montenegro. It was one of the places I wanted to stay the longest.

From sampling delicacies in the many restaurants, to climbing the 1355 steps of the Kotor fortress, admiring the beautiful Bay of Kotor or getting lost in the streets and alleys, this Montenegrin city is not to be missed.

Just a few minutes from Kotor, you'll find a small stone village where you can spend a quiet afternoon just watching the boats move in the bay or hop on a boat and visit the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Škrpjela).

This Baroque-style church was built in 1630 on an artificial island - built by fishermen from Perast - and is one of the main attractions of the Bay of Kotor. The best way to get there is by boat. And you'll have no trouble finding someone to take you there for €5 or €10.

Day 4: Serpentine and Lovcén

If you like adventure and drama, then you'll love the winding mountain road that only allows speeds of between 40 and 50 kilometres per hour between the towns of Cetinje and Kotor. However, the most challenging, interesting and breathtaking part of the road is the eight-kilometre stretch with 16 hairpin bends, known as the Kotor Serpentine.

This is one of those places where I don't recommend driving, unless you have plenty of experience behind the wheel.

After successfully completing this part of the road, don't stop there. I recommend that you continue on to Lovcén National Park. This park is located in the rocky region of the Dinara Alps. You can climb to the top of the mountain by car and walk the last few metres to the Mausoleum of Njegoš. And I recommend staying for lunch - see the restaurants I recommend in Kotor.

Part of the road between Kotor and Lovcén is under construction, but if you drive slowly you won't have any problems. I recommend that you take this route on your outward journey. Then, on the way back to Kotor, travel through another equally beautiful area, which skirts the Lovcén National Park, passing through Cetinje, Dubovik and Njeguši.

I suggest you stop off in Njeguši and buy cheese and ham, as both products are of the highest quality and locally sourced. You won't get better ham in Montenegro than in Njeguši.

Return to Kotor and rest, as this was a day of strong emotions.

Day 5: Budva / Sveti Stefan

I personally didn't like Budva and passed it by. There are some attractive beaches in the area - some hidden away. The town of Budva is ugly, with terrible town planning, reminiscent of the worst areas of the Algarve.

I chose to follow the road and take a look at a favourite spot for many millionaires - Sveti Stefan. It's a small 5-star island resort - only open to clients. Sveti Stefan is located off the coast of Montenegro, just a few kilometres from Budva. The resort is known as Aman Sveti Stefan.

If your purse allows, stay in Sveti Stefan. But if it doesn't, you can choose any other resort in the neighbourhood and you'll also have great views. The area is beautiful and it's worth spending an afternoon or even a day there to relax and bathe in the calm waves of the Adriatic Sea. The only drawback is that the beach is gravelled.

Day 6: Skadar Lake

It's one of the most beautiful places in the Balkans and couldn't, of course, be left out of my week-long trip to Montenegro. Lake Skadar, on the border with Albania, is simply brilliant. The landscape is beautiful at any time of day, but particularly after 3pm, when the colours of the hillsides become more golden as the sun descends over the horizon.

There are several places along the mountain road where you can stop and take photos of Lake Skadar. Five or six kilometres from the village of Rijeka Crnojevića there is a viewpoint - next to a (former) hotel. In Rijeka Crnojevića, or in Virpazar, you can also hire a boat and take a trip along the river, seeing the landscape from another perspective and spotting some wildlife.

I chose to stay overnight in a place near Lake Skadar, where I had a panoramic view of the whole landscape. I recommend you do the same and have your meal with these images as company.

Day 7 Ostrog Monastery and Durmitor National Park

This will be a long day, with lots of driving in between. When travelling from Lake Skadar I recommend stopping at the Ostrog Monastery. The road is busy and you'll pass the capital Podgorica, so be prepared for some time in traffic.

However, when you arrive at the Ostrog Monastery you'll be blown away by the way the work was executed - on the vertical escarpment of a mountain. Climb up to the Monastery and enjoy the green landscape below and don't forget to appreciate the murals inside the building.

Then head to my favourite part of Montenegro. Although it's hard to choose, I loved Durmitor National Park and especially the Bobotov Kuk area. Take my advice and don't travel directly from Ostrog to Žabljaka. Instead, make a diversion to Plužine and go from there to Žabljak.

I guarantee that you'll be frightened as you drive through tunnels that seem to have no end, with no light, along vertiginous (and very, very narrow) mountain roads.

You will then go through a kind of Shire from Lord of the Rings, with green plateaus, until you come across pastures and finally marvel at the unbelievable mountain landscapes of this road.

If you're travelling through this area, all you have to do is promise me - and yourself - that you'll drive very carefully and won't be distracted by the beauty, because the roads are really narrow - hardly two cars pass and the slopes are very high. Any slip could be fatal.

And, of course, when you enter Durmitor National Park, you have to visit the Black Lake (or Crno Jezero). You can take a trip around the Black Lake in a small boat or kayak. Durmitor National Park is open from 7am and admission costs €3.

Day 9: Biogradska Gora National Park

Biogradska Gora is a forest and national park in Montenegro, in the Kolašin area. Biogradska is considered one of the last virgin forests in Europe. The scenery is fantastic - especially in autumn. Entrance to the park is just €3 and it's a perfect place to walk and be enchanted by the colours of the forests and the lake that kisses the roots of trees tens of metres high.

The park can be explored on foot or by bicycle. I recommend the (easy) walk around the lake, which should take you just over an hour to complete (if you're not like me and stop to photograph every 100 metres!). It's one of the most beautiful routes in Montenegro.

How many days to visit Montenegro?

This is a country of sublime landscapes, delicious cuisine, excellent beaches, mysterious monasteries, sparkling bays, majestic mountains and fantastic parks. For all these reasons (and many others), between 7 and 10 days is ideal for a first trip to Montenegro. However, all that time will always seem too little.

When you find yourself having to stop to photograph (and contemplate) and when you sit down at a restaurant table, you'll realise that time seems to fly.

Save time (and money)

If you want to immerse yourself even more in the local culture, optimise your trip and even save money, take part in experiences and guided tours in Montenegro. Book the best tours and activities in advance. Skip the queues and get your entrances to monumentsYou'll have more time to enjoy your trip.

Map of the best places to see in Montenegro

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