Belize - a paradise where even the sharks hug you

I'm flying through mainland Belize. I didn't plan to spend any time in towns or small villages on the mainland of Belize. Before entering this Central American country I knew little or nothing. My basic knowledge was that the capital was Belmopan and not Belize City.

I didn't even want to visit the Mayan ruins in Belize - Caracol or Xunantunich (El Castillo). Belize was my third stop on a long journey that had begun weeks earlier in Xalapa, Mexico. Since then, I'd travelled through a large part of Mexico and Guatemala.

And I had already visited several incredible Mayan ruins – such as Palenque, Chichén Itzá or my favorite Mayan ruin – Tikal. Therefore, I had left the archaeological sites off my itinerary for Belize.

When I planned the trip to Belize, the idea was always to add something different to the route. That's why the Mayan ruins were excluded - not because they weren't interesting or less beautiful than others. It was just a question of time and priority.

Of the little I knew about Belize, there was one thing I took for granted - the best photographic opportunities and beauty were to be found in the sea - seen from the outside and, above all, seen from the inside. The images of irresistible blue waters, of islands where cars don't drive, where the hands turn passively, where Caribbean rhythms command life.

Although more than 60 per cent of Belize's territory is covered in forest, the small Latin Caribbean country is rich in marine fauna and flora.

It is an essential landmark in the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor and has the second-largest Barrier Reef in the world – second only to the Great Barrier Reef in Queensland, Australia. The importance of the Belize Barrier Reef is such that UNESCO has recognized it as a World Heritage Site.

The latest estimates point to more than 500 species of fish and 100 types of coral. However, it is estimated that 90% of the Belize Barrier Reef remains unexplored.

Where is the capital of Belize?

With just over 387,000 inhabitants, Belize is a small coastal country in Central America, bordered by Guatemala and Mexico – it is the country with the lowest population density in this region of the globe.

If the expression applies to Portugal for a rectangle planted by the sea, then it's even more true for Belize, because from north to south the distance is only 280 kilometres, while from east to west it's 100 kilometres.

With few exceptions, the capital cities of countries are prominent, imposing places, where investment is concentrated, where all the locals and foreign visitors flock. Some do so in search of quality of life, others to visit attractions such as museums, parks or to admire architecture.

Even though there are cities in Latin America itself with little or nothing relevant to visit - such as Guatemala City - they are still centres of affluence.

The result of more land division by colonisers, Belize is a nation confused between its colonial past and its connection to the English monarchy, but also between its present and future, which are more inspired by neighbouring nations.

I hear Spanish and English being spoken, I see white, mestizo, and Creole people – influences from the struggles between powers and the trafficking of black slaves. This is also why it is considered a country of both Central America and the Caribbean.

The United Kingdom only gained independence in 1981, after 141 years under British rule. Before that, the small nation had already been the subject of a dispute between the British and the Spanish. Only in 1973 was British Honduras renamed Belize.

I realise, only with the help of a paper map, that I'm passing through the outskirts of Belmopan - the capital of Belize. Belmopan has been the capital since 1970, having taken over from Belize City. The government moved to Belmopan after Hurricane Hattie devastated the previous capital in 1961.

I pass through Belmopan almost without realising it. In the suburbs, Belizean women and men shelter from the sun on their balconies. Many of the houses are made of wood, painted in vibrant colours in the Caribbean style

I'm travelling through Belize without a GPS and there are little or no signs in the towns, on the roads. I ask for directions from a man walking along the road with a rucksack on his back. I greet him in English and he replies in Spanish.

So we spoke in Spanish - in fact, he did, because I was the one who needed directions to the port of Belize City.

In Madonna's footsteps

How many of us, even the worst dancers, have thrilled to the rhythms of The Beautiful Island by Madonna. Madonna found inspiration in this piece of paradise for one of her biggest hits. Following in her footsteps, I too am travelling to the island of Ambergris Caye and San Pedro.

At Belize City's maritime terminal, countless tourists are preparing for this foray across the Caribbean Sea, to take the high-speed boat to San Pedro. Even those who can't resist the swings and jumps - and are affected by nausea - find enchantment in the beautiful waters we cross.

The turquoise colour intensifies with every jump, every sudden movement. For 45 minutes, I witness the discomfort of some passengers and the amazement of others.

The ferry is followed by a water taxi to the resort where I'll be staying overnight - a luxury on a trip lasting several weeks. A whitish stretch of sand awaits me, with palm trees and coconut palms. On the seafront, several kayaks are waiting for customers, but it's the warm waters of the Caribbean that are calling me.

Dancing with the sharks on La Isla Bonita

I drop my bags off at the resort and run to the dive centre - less than two minutes away on foot. Although the hour was a little late for a trip to the coral reef, my two travelling companions, Ana and António, and I managed to convince Miguel to join us for another dive session. snorkelling on the high seas. In fact, the guide-captain of the speed-boat seems even more enthusiastic than we are.

When we reach the coral zone, we can see - even from the boat - various species below, but we can't make out which ones. Inside the boat, Miguel has two coolers - one with fruit and the other with small fish.

Open the latter and throw several fish into the sea. He asks us to do the same and throw fish around the boat. Seconds later, a huge commotion breaks out in the water - almost a dozen sharks, several rays and hundreds of fish run over each other. The most powerful sharks, of course, arrive first.

Miguel had told us before to jump into the sea, but we refused because he himself seemed reluctant. He was, we now realised, challenging us. "The sharks are friendly here, but it's best to feed them first," he warned, adding as he jumped that it was "safe" to go.

We spent a few seconds gazing at it at the bottom of the ocean and laughing nervously. Until we lost our fear and also jumped (or slowly slid) into the water, but... to the opposite side where the sharks were dancing.

My travelling companions are more adventurous and jump in first. Once I got over my fear, I jumped in too, and to this day I remember it as one of the most fantastic experiences I've ever had. I ignore the passing of the minutes, the hours, I ignore the sunset. I'm in ecstasy. Sharing the ocean in this intimate way with these species is almost indescribable.

With a small underwater camera I get close to nurse sharks and rays, forgetting that I'm human and diving in to get up close and personal with them.

A few months later, I learnt that an incident had taken place there involving a nurse shark which, feeling threatened, attacked a tourist. This species of shark is considered harmless and the incident was a very rare exception.

I lost count of how long I was in the water and only the dusk and wrinkled skin brought me out. Back on the boat, I savour a fresh slice of watermelon - perhaps the best slice I've ever tasted. Watermelon is a fascinating antidote to salty lips.

Miguel, the captain-guide, is Mexican and has been taking tourists diving in Belize's coral reefs from Ambergris Caye for several years. On the way back to the hotel, still smiling with excitement, I ask him:

-Today is Sunday, don't you have any days off or holidays?

And the response was immediate...

- Look at the scenery around you. Do you think I need a holiday...?

I was speechless and we were all silent. If even Madonna has surrendered to the charms of Belize, who am I to remain indifferent?

Comparable to this natural marine beauty of Belize, so far, I have only encountered the underwater life of Raja Ampat, in Indonesia. I still need to return to Belize to go to the Blue Hole, in the center of the Lighthouse Reef atoll.

Extra information

Visa for Belize

Many citizens do not need a visa for Belize. You must have a passport valid for six months from the date of travel, a return airline ticket and enough money for your stay in Belize - around 50 dollars a day.

The maximum visit period is 30 days for Portuguese citizens and 90 days for citizens of Brazilian origin.

Money

The money is the Belize dollar (BZ $), whose value is linked to the US dollar: one US dollar equals two Belize dollars. Both currencies are accepted everywhere.

It is easy to exchange money in Belize, but it is always advisable to carry money in various forms: a mix of cash, credit cards, and debit cards – like the Wise card, which I recommend. If you have US dollars or US dollar-based traveler's checks with you, you do not need to exchange them for Belize dollars.

Pay attention to prices, as it is common for many places such as hotels, restaurants or tourist businesses to display prices in US dollars. In Belize, you'll find ATMs in the main tourist areas, such as Belize City, San Pedro or Caye Caulker, but these ATMs don't always work.

Healthcare in Belize

Pay special attention to mosquitoes in Belize, as they carry diseases such as Zika, dengue or malaria. Always carry a good mosquito repellent with a high level of Deet. Note that the higher the concentration of Deet, it doesn't mean more protection, just that you can go longer without applying the repellent.

In many places it is advisable to use sunscreen, but in Belize it is essential. And choose a sunscreen that is environmentally friendly and, above all, not harmful to marine life and corals. Various sunscreen ingredients cause problems for corals and the Belize Barrier Reef is a fragile ecosystem that is under threat.

And if you apply sunscreen and repellent, apply the sunscreen first and only then the repellent.

Essential equipment

You can bring your own diving equipment if you prefer, but all the dive centres have equipment you can rent, such as masks, tubes and fins. I used the services of White Sands Dive, a few metres from the Las Terrazas hotel - where I stayed. The price was reasonable for the boat trip to the coral zone and the guide was 5 stars.

If you're going to Belize, it's essential to have an aquatic camera. I used the GoPro and I recommend it for its quality and portability.

Where to leave your car in Belize

If you're travelling to Belize by car, it's very likely that you'll need to leave your car parked for a few days while you visit the islands. Many of the hotels in Belize allow you to park your car in their secure, guarded car parks.

Hire a car

If you have your own car, it's much easier. Choose to hire a car with Discovercars. This site allows you to compare prices and, in many cases, you can cancel the rental free of charge up to 48 hours before departure.

Best time to visit Belize

Belize is regularly affected by hurricanes and tropical storms. The country's climate is subtropical; January to May is the dry season and June to December is the rainy season. The best time to visit Belize is between January and April, when it is less hot and humid. However, these are the high season months.

How to get to Belize

Flights

To fly to Belize, the best options are British Airways or Iberia, with stopovers in London (or Madrid) and Miami, from where you will fly with American Airlines to Philip Goldson International Airport (BZE), on the outskirts of Belize City.

You can also fly to Mexico (Mexico City or Cancún) and then on to Belize. Use Skyscanner, the search engine I recommend for finding the best value flights.

Bus

You can do as I did and cross into Belize from Guatemala. There are bus connections from Guatemala and Mexico, for example with the company ADO, from Mérida, Cancún or Playa del Carmen. From Cancún, the price is around 900 Mexican pesos, or €40, and the travel time is about nine hours. From Guatemala try the options with the company Linea Dorada.

Boat to the islands

To get to the islands there are several maritime services from the Belize City maritime terminal. There are regular departures to Ambergris Caye (San Pedro) and Caye Caulker.

Temperatures in Belize vary according to elevation and proximity to the coast. On average the temperature is around 25 degrees in January and 27 degrees in July.

Safety in Belize

In all the time I've been in Belize, I haven't experienced any problems in terms of security. However, Belize does have a considerable crime rate - if you look at the total population. Most of this violent crime is related - as is common in this part of the world - to gangs and drug distribution routes. Avoid the southern part of Belize City.

Hotel in Belize

It's not essential for a trip to Belize to choose a luxury hotel, but if you can, do it. The hotel I stayed at is perfect: Las Terrazas. The price is high, but Las Terrazas Resort is described as the place "where natural paradise meets 5-star luxury".

The fabulous resort consists of fully equipped one, two and three-bedroom villas. All the rooms have air-conditioning, huge LCDs, kitchen facilities and free Wi-Fi. In the complex, there is a fantastic swimming pool and you also have access to a private beach - where you can hire kayaks.

Other options for staying in Belize include the Ambergris Sunset Hotel, a favorite for those on a more limited budget. With a pool, garden, terrace, free WiFi, and the possibility of renting bicycles, this hotel in San Pedro is a great choice, with prices around €60 per night.

The Sandbar Beachfront Hostel & Restaurant is a basic option, but it receives very favorable reviews from guests. With prices for double rooms starting from €40 and dorm beds from €17, it is the right choice for those who want to save as much as possible.

Search for a hotel in Belize

Travel Insurance

Never travel without travel insurance. I recommend IATI Seguros or Heymondo (if you use either of these links you get a 5% discount). They are the best travel insurance (and the cheapest) and have Covid-19 protection.

How much does travel insurance cost in Belize?

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